Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Preservative ruin my hair conditioner!

  • Preservative ruin my hair conditioner!

    Posted by Anonymous on March 29, 2016 at 11:57 pm

    Hi!!

    I’m having a big problem in my production. We are producing personal care stuff and one of it is hair conditioner. Right now we are using this formulation (my boss create this formulation);
    Aqua                     94.24 %
    Cetearyl alcohol     2.4 %
    Cetyl alcohol         1%
    Dimethicone           0.5%
    Cetrimonium chloride             1.8%
    Preservative (CMIT + MIT)      0.06%
    When we add preservative, viscosity drop down and turn my conditioner into water’s viscosity. Even if we adjusting with cetearyl alcohol it doesn’t work. I’m really need help because I don’t know what exactly happend T_T.
    Thank you.
    Anonymous replied 8 years, 10 months ago 4 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • ozgirl

    Member
    March 30, 2016 at 1:44 am

    I think the formula needs an emulsifier. It would appear that the formula is not really stable and destabilizes completely when you add the preservative.

    Refer to Perry’s comments in this discussion for more info.

    https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/1783/queries-for-experienced-lotion-and-hair-conditioner-producers/p1

  • jiroband

    Member
    March 30, 2016 at 6:06 pm

    I think ozgirl is correct about the need for an emulsifier. Have you considered using a primary emulsifier like Behentrimonium Methosulfate (BTMS)? It’s a great emulsifier with conditioning properties as well. This is pretty much a standard used in commercial hair conditioners.

    Cetearyl and cetyl alcohol are good secondary emulsifiers, but not really strong enough on their own to maintain a stable emulsion.
    It also sounds like you may be having compatibility issues with your preservative system.
  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 30, 2016 at 8:36 pm

    Even easier is to use blends … Ceterayl Alcohol & Behentrimonium Methosulfate or Cetyl Alcohol & Behentrimonium Methosulfate … from Croda or Koster Keunen

  • Chemist77

    Member
    April 3, 2016 at 10:23 am

    Or just add a little glycerl stearate there say 1-2%, should work. Also if that cetrimonium chloride is 30% that you are referring to, then make it at least 5% so that the final formula has at least 1.5%. Will help in emulsifying the formulation too. Check the pH as well, important here. 

  • Anonymous

    Guest
    April 4, 2016 at 10:48 am

    Thanks a lot ozgirl, you made me study about emulsifier and surfactant during my weekend. 

    Perry thanks for your lesson “Introduction to cosmetic science”. It really useful for beginner like me. 
    Jiroband and markbroussard thanks for your advice, I heard about BTMS and cetearyl + BTMS, but so far couldn’t find any supplier for it. 
    Chemist77 at the time I read you comment I already tried adding cetrimonium chloride and it works ^^, Reading your comment even make me more excited, means what I did is correct! I add 0.8 % of cetrimonium chloride into the conditioner (the one with low viscosity) and then the viscosity start to build up. I’m just curious why is this happend? I mean in terms of their molecular structure maybe. Can anyone give some hint so that I know what should I study about. Besides that based on MSDS, it is suggested for rinse off product, only 1 to 2% cetrimonium chloride should be use. If I used more than that will it cause bad effect to human hair.
  • Chemist77

    Member
    April 5, 2016 at 6:12 am

    All I can say is that it is synergistic thickening with the fatty alcohols that you have used, when they say 1-2% it means active substance. Since generally it is 30% solution you could use between 4-6% if suggested by the MSDS for the active. 

  • Anonymous

    Guest
    April 5, 2016 at 10:48 am

    Owhhh I see, I forgot about the 30%. Thanks a lot.

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