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Hair Conditioner Formula
Hello fellow formulators / experts,
I would like to get your thoughts on one of the natural conditioner products that I am analyzing. It is called Giovanni 2chic Ultra Moist Avocado & Olive Oil Conditioner. This conditioner works much better than other conditioners that contain polyquaternium series, behentrimonium or centrimonium chlorides, etc! It contains pretty simple ingredients! Based on their ingredients (listed below) what do you think is providing to its high conditioning, easy combing, and detangling qualities?
INGREDIENTS: Aqua (Purified Water), Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B-5), Phenoxyethanol, Citric Acid, Chlorophyllin-Copper Complex, Fragrance,*Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice, *Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, *Litchi (Lychee) Chinensis Fruit Extract, * Olea Europaea (Olive)Fruit Oil, * Chenopodium Quinaa Flower/Leaf Extract, *Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, *Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Sodium Benzoate.
Vida
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7 Replies
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Simple is a relative term as things like Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Chlorophyllin-Coper Complex, and Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride don’t seem very simple to me. But having said that there is a polyquaternium in the formula. Guar Hydroxpropyltrimonium Chloride is a polyquaternium. This in addition to the Glycerin & Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride would be responsible for the conditioning effect.It’s also difficult to guess because the term “high conditioning” isn’t specifically defined. Any conditioner with enough oils in it that don’t rinse out will make the hair easier to comb and detangle compared to no treatment. You’d have to compare this formula to say Pantene on a blinded basis to see whether one is really more high conditioning than another.
Incidentally, if we strip away all the “fluff” ingredients here are the ones that are likely having an effect on conditioning…INGREDIENTS: Aqua (Purified Water), Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride… -
Thank you very much Perry. This really helps.
I know it is hard to guess the amount of glycerin that they are using by just looking at their ingredient list. But do you think high amount of glycerin (higher that 3%) could also be a contributor?Thank you in advance.Vida -
I would guess they are using about 5% glycerin based on the ingredient list. Cetyl Alcohol maybe 4%, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3.5%, Stearyl Alcohol 3.5%, Cetearyl Alcohol 3% and the Guar maybe 1% (at most)
I’m skeptical that the glycerin would have much conditioning effect. It is water soluble and should just rinse away with the rinse water. But maybe some of it stays behind. -
Check the pH too, I am supposing that they have used Ecosmooth 100 which needs to be activated at around pH 4 and as @Perry said that the other ingredients too are contributing. Guar Hydroxypropyltrimoniun Chloride is Ecosmooth 100 and is used in many shampoo formulations too, good compatibility with anionic based shampoos too.
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I agree with @milliachemist. I find acidic conditioner better, with pH 4.00 - 5.00, than those with pH above 5.00.
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Guar Hydroxypropyltrimoniun Chloride is Ecosmooth 100
also known as Cosmedia Guar. -
Thank you everyone for very informative comments.
In your experience, which brand of the Guar Hydroxypropyltrimomium Chloride is best (Ecosmooth 100 by Dow Chemical, Jaguar Optima by Nexeo Solutions/Solvay, or others)?Thank you,Vida
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