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Mamey cream
This is just something I knocked together this morning. It hasn’t been subjected to stability test yet. I’m offering it just for anyone who might be interested. Comments are welcome.
Polar phase:Water 77.5%Glycerine 3%d-Panthenol 1%Green Tea Extract 0.1%Parabens 0.5%Gluadin W-40 Benz (hydrolysed wheat protein) 0.2%Nonpolar phaseMamey oil 5%Stearic acid 5%Vitamin E 0.5%Dimethicone 1000 fluid 1%Fragrance 0.2%Glycerol monostearate 2%Polysorbate-80 4%A pale pink cream of light consistency that spreads easily on the skin. Absorbs quite quickly (in a few minutes). The silicone is to prevent TEWL.This was designed using the HLB system and the emulsification appears to be good, so far.If you want to make this, and have trouble obtaining mamey oil (it is not a commonly available oil) then try Argan oil instead, it is a close relative of the mamey shrub. -
24 Replies
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great @Belassi….
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Maybe reduce the silicone to 0.5% I think. And add a little cetostearyl alcohol to thicken, say 1.5 to 2%
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@Belassi Looks nice to me - and yes 0,5% silicone.
I always wondered if there is any special reason to use stearic acid in a cream? I can understand that it is useful for a shaving cream/ soap where it is neutralized, but in a (low-pH)cream? -
Stearic acid gives a nice skin feel. Just ask Nivea…
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Update: I do think the stearic acid is too high now. The effect of the cream seems excellent but I think I’ll reduce the stearic acid to say 1% and replace it with … hmm. Have to cast an eye on the raw materials shelves. Suggestions welcome.
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Is it not better to reduce the concentration of Paraben to 0.2%?
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I would try to do this nice formulation with 0.2% Paraben at first. Thereafter I will do the stability test to prove if that paraben concentration is enough for the preservation of my product. If that is the case I will work at that concentration.
By the way, which kind of paraben are you using in your formulation?
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I use methyl parabens and propyl parabens at a ratio of 2:1 by weight.
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@belassi this formula is a hand cream?
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That’s correct, it is a hand cream.
I am going to change the 5% stearic to 1% stearic, 3% cetearyl alcohol and 1% cetyl alcohol and see how that is. -
I have produced a 500g test batch of the modified formula as per my last post. The pH = 5.5 without any adjustment required. The organic mamey oil is tending to sequester at today’s ambient which is 21C. It seems to have a fusion temperature of around 20C.
The revised formula on application seems a bit “sticky”. The sensation doesn’t last long but I would prefer not… perhaps reduce the % of glycerine? -
why u use d-panthenol,hydrolyzed wheat protein for a hand cream? I think sticky feel dues to polysorbate 80 not glycerin.
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The sticky feel is from the Polysorbate 80, the glycerin and the panthenol … all leave a sticky feel on the skin. Cutting down on the Polysorbate and glycerin will definitely help. You can also up the dimethicone and/or throw in some C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate or ethylhexyl palmitate.
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Yeah. I haven’t had problems before with glycerine at 3% so I’ll begin by determining the minimum amount of polysorbate 80. To answer @nasrins comment, the skin loves d-Panthenol according to Swift’s blog.
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Your formula has approximately 6% oil and 4% Polysorbate 80?! Add it all up and you have more emulsifier than oil … ijs.
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Yes, you’re right. I reduced the emollients but forgot to adjust the emulsifiers! And, would Polysorbate 20 be better to use?
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I would stick with Polysorbate 80 for mamey oil, if it’s similar to Argan Oil, as you posted. Just recheck your HLB calculations.
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@Belassi a word of warning, polysorbate 80 is likely to knacker your preservatives; this is why it’s an essential part of many microbiological neutralising broths!
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Thanks guys, I will run another test batch next week, after I finish making a large batch of shampoo!
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The latest test batch has a few changes. I’ve replaced the emulsifier with a more exotic one, and replaced part of the mamey oil with an ester, SHS. The excess stickiness has gone now. This one is a pretty thick cream, high in lipids, has great sensorials - feels super nice to spread out - absorbs in minutes leaving a velvet feel.
Now:Polar phase:Water 80%Glycerine 1%d-Panthenol 1%Green Tea Extract 0.2%Nonpolar phaseMamey oil 3%Stearic acid 2%Cetyl alc 2%Cetearyl alc 5%Vitamin E 0.5%Silsense DW-18 0.1%Fragrance 0.2%Emulgin VL75 2%SHS ester 2%parabens 0.4%fragrance 0.2% -
Interestingly, this emulsion seems very forgiving. I re-heated the remaining part of the test batch, and added 5% of hydrosol actives such as cassia angustifolia. I stirred this in with a plastic spoon (it was only 300 mL) and it rapidly reformed as an emulsion, no separation problems later.
Overall: this has terrific sensorials. Very cushiony and great slip/glide, long play time. Absorbs in about 5 minutes but does leave an occlusive film, probably the SHS. Velvet after-effect with intense hydration. I think this is too rich by far for a face cream but it will make a great intensive care lotion for dried-out, damaged skin.Development now finished on that one. There will be one more test, removing the SHS and replacing it with a light ester, Myritol 318 (capric/caprylic triglycerides) with the aim of removing the occlusive film and producing a matt finish day cream. -
I did the replacement trial today. Same formula except I replaced the SHS ester with Myritol 318, and replaced the mamey oil with chia oil.
The new version does not leave an occlusive film. It absorbs twice as fast. Quite different. I really like it.One strange feature: I left some in a small beaker. Cooled to room temperature, it will (very slowly) pour out of the beaker, leaving the glass surface clean and dry. -
@Belassi how great that I came across this! I’m actually working on a lotion project at the moment to aide with eczema. My current formula is getting some good feedback, but to me is leaving something to be desired. I’ll revise with some of your logic and see what I can get.
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The chia oil version became a new product, “Omega cream”. We test marketed it yesterday at an expo and it sold quite well. I like it a lot.
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