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Basic oil based concealer formula - Need help to make it conceal.. Formula within.
Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides a 65.0 % Beeswax a 10.0 Zinc Oxide 0.6um b 15.0 Boron Nitride 10um b 10.0 Yellow Oxide c1 0.200 Brown Oxide c1 0.060 Here’s a proposed super basic formula. Looking for great coverage, but feel it’s not good enough. Use more oxides? Do you need any special tools beyond a staff mixer to blend the oxides into the formula?
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11 Replies
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For sure you are lacking on Iron oxides, try to add little Black Iron Oxide too. It will enhance the effect of your brown and yellow oxide, if not then take out a little Zinc Oxide and stick to the same level of brown and yellow oxides and see where you stand on coverage. Sorry it’s not a bull’s eye but then color cosmetics is all about trials and more trials.
Cheers
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Does anyone have a basic formula to share that’s a decent starting point? The formula is for the lightest shade btw, for quite pale skin, hence the low amounts.
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I would add some Titanium Oxide and just a few of red and blue pigment - you will get very natural tone with nice coverage…However - it depends on skin tone as well
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I agree with vitalys on Titanium Dioxide, it would highlight the tones of your brown and yellow pigments if it is for a light skin. Maybe a filler can help you too with a better coverage e.g. Nylon -12 or BPD series polymers from Kobo. As for the addition of blue pigment you have to do the color matching for the skin tone that it is going to be used for.
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milliachemist , Nice input! I have forgotten to mention nylon and BPD !
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So I’ve used boron nitride as a titanium dioxide replacement in this particular “natural friendly” formula, any comment on the percentages and particle sizes?
It is a bit too thin, so I’ll increase the amount of beeswax. I’d also like to improve coverage + opacity. So
@millachemist any particular Nylon-12 source or BPD? If you have model names I can probably get samplesBlue pigment is interesting, never thought of that, but first improving coverage is more important.
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Coverage/opacity in a concealer formula can be maximized by first making sure that all of your pigment/powder particles are fully wetted and de-agglomerated.
A staff mixer definitely will not do this job. High-shear rates are absolutely needed. On a very small scale, you can do this with a glass hand muller and a frosted piece of plate glass. On a slightly larger but still small scale, you might be able to do this in a kitchen blender with a very small container, but it’s iffy: http://www.amazon.com/Oster-4937-Mini-Jar-Accessory/dp/B000BDBG2M The next step up is a mini ball mill - one can be assembled from a high-quality rotary rock tumbler (Lortone) and then buying the media separately.Once you’ve gotten the powders properly dispersed (the ZnO will need more time than the Boron Nitride, which also needs care taken not to break the platelets) and you still aren’t getting enough opacity, you can take a page from the paint industry, which deliberately uses different particle sizes to “fill in” the gaps between particles. Of course, you could also do this by just increasing the ZnO levels… -
Zink Check with Kobo but if I remember correctly then I had used BPD500. As for nylon 6 and 12 they are more preferred for mascaras and liquid eye liners.
Re the boron nitride I am big zero as i never used it extensively, so I hope other learned mentors can enlighten us -
Thanks a lot Robert, I had a feeling I was doingitwrong, but hard to find info on formulating these things.
My staff mixer does 15000 rpm, when used in a tightly fitting beaker I feel it will function like the Amazon jar blender you linked to.Regarding milling, how do you use the Lortone as a ball mill - what extras do you need? (They range from $40 used to $100 new). How long do you generally mill Zno for?And how about a ball mill attached to a drill like this one:$(KGrHqZ,!k4E6E5O3j1qBOiCw)hWdg~~60_12.JPG” style=”font-size: 10pt;”>
Do you know anything about what particle sizes work well together? I have two different ones of Zinc, around 0.5 and 0.1 um averages.Thanks milla. Will try to sample them.
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@bobzchemist “The next step up is a mini ball mill - one can be assembled from a high-quality rotary rock tumbler (Lortone) and then buying the media separately.”
So I’m thinking I’ll go for this, but need to know what kind of media is suitable (if anyone else knows please chime in) -
bump
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