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Thickening without Polymers
Relatively new to the formulation field, all of my (body lotion) formulations have been thickened using a traditional polymer system (Carbopol, ect.). I would like to thicken my formulation without the use of a polymer though. What are my best, inexpensive options? Cetearyl Alcohol? Polyquaternium 37? I would like something that feels good on the skin without terrible amounts of drag, but really any advice that could send me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated! Any suggestions on the level of non-polymeric thickener I would need for a medium thickness lotion (equivalent of what you would get from roughly 0.5% Ultrez-10)?
Thank you for your comments and advice!
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45 Replies
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Why do you want to thicken lotions without using polymers? And does this mean that you are also excluding non-acrylic polymers? PEGs, for example? Are you excluding “natural” polymers also, like polysaccharides?
Polyquaternium 37 is also a polymer, you know…I will also point out that it is completely impossible to mimic the feel of a carbopol-containing lotion with anything non-polymeric - be prepared for a radical difference in skin feel. -
polyquaternium 37 is also a polymer.
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when u use acis stearic in your formula, and the end of formulation when u use triethanolamine , the emolsion becomes thicked without any polymeric thickenings.
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My suggestion is to continue to use Carbopol thickener. It will improve your stability too.
Why do you want to not use Carbopol? -
Yes. Polyquaternium 37 is also a polymer. I don’t know what was going through my head when I mentioned that one.. the prefix “poly” kind of gives it away!
Ignoring that embarrassing mistake, I am still curious about alternative methods to thicken formulas. For me it is more of a fundamental desire to learn how thick lotions used to be made before common polymeric thickeners such as carbopol. I would like to be able to do the same. Although, yes I do know that carbopol is the best choice 9.9/10 times.
Much to my surprise though, I was in Bath and Bodyworks the other day and ran across a lotion that appeared to be only thickened with Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, and Ceteareth-20. Acrylates, gums, or poly”x” were not mentioned anywhere on the ingredient listing. Perhaps this would be a good approach for me to follow?
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Try adding 2% cetyl alcohol to your heated oil phase, this will thicken and shouldn’t be draggy.
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HEC, Sodium CMC, xanthan dont have poly as a prefix to their trade names
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@milliachemist HEC and xantan are natural polymers so they didnt get poly.
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Technically they are but trade names don’t have poly
just a banter nasrins -
@milliachemist whats different between HEC, Xantan gum and carbomer? are their thickening power as the same? can we use them in any cosmetic product?
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Apart from the origin, the basic function remains same i.e. thickening and stabilizing the emulsions or the formula in general. Their use is a matter of choice though again the compatibility with other ingredients has to be kept in mind. As for the thickening capability yes they differ in the yield values and hence they have different suspension abilities.
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@milliachemist thanks alot
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U r welcome
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As a general rule of thumb Carbomer gives the best clarity. HEC and Xanthan gums are usually a little hazy They also do not have the suspending power of Carbomer. So you could make a flowable Carbomer thickened liquid that would also suspend things like gelatin beads in it.
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@ perry you are the best
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@nasrins, I bet you’d find it helpful to make up 1% solutions of the various thickeners and compare them.
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@perry but I think poyquaternium 10 is better than carbomer in clarity.
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@bobzchemist thats a good idea
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@perry I made shower gel with 1% carbomer but suger beads sedimented. also I used 4% aculyn 88 and 0.4 KOH for neutralizing … so carbomer coudnt suspend suger beads.
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water 74EDTA 0.1TEXAPON (Sodium laureth sulfate 70%) 12Aculyn 88 (acrylate/ stearath20 methacrylate crosspolymer) 4KOH 0.4Sodium PCA 2TEQNON 101(decyl glocoside) 2Carbomer 1Suger bead 0.1
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Which carbomer u hv used, not every carbomer goes with SLES???? Secondly use either of the polymer, u dont need 2 polymers in one formula. I have a similar formula with a good yield value but I have used Aculyn 22 only, in another formula I have used Carbomer (for surfactant systems) and hv been able to suspend pearl particles successfully.
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carbomer is carbomer (acrylic acid homopolymer), what do u mean? I want to use another raw material instead of aculyns. Can only carbomer suspend suger beads?
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Check Carbomer Aqua SF1 (Acrylates Copolymer), it has back acid thickening feature as well which helps in maintaining the viscosity once you start neutralizing with the carboxylic acid. You have to try at 4% to check the suspension, other polymers that could be of use is HPMC. But i hv not used HPMC till yet, for me Aculyn 22 and Carbopol Aqua Sf 1 have done wonderfully well in formulations.
I sent you a link re the suspension and you have to see the yield value of every polymer and in the list carbomer holds out best. But still u can try other polymers for your own knowledge and experience.
Given the formula u hv mentioned I m sure Carbomer Aqua SF 1 or aculyn 22 would work out well for u, but preferably carbopol aqua sf 1 -
with 4% carbomer can I have clear shower gel which suger beads are seen and suspend very well?
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nasrins its a 30% active matter so u wud hv approx 1.2% active overall. And yes u can hv suspension of sugar beads, maybe u need to optimize a little but m sure u can get it right in few trials only.
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