[spadirect]

Does cetearyl alcohol perform similarly to cetyl alcohol as an opacifier and emulsion stabilizer?

In other words, as a general rule, could cetearly alcohol replace cetyl alcohol in a formulation without seeing much difference in the final product?

Believe it or not, I have heard from a number of people who say they don’t like creams that are too slippery upon application.

[spadirect]

The literature on cyclodextrins indicates they are effective deodorizing agents in cosmetics.  Also, as polysaccharides they should be harmless health-wise.

What have been forum contributing chemists’ experiences and impressions about formulating with cyclodextrins?

[spadirect]

So there would be no need to increase the percentage by weight of vegetable/carrier oils?

[spadirect]

All of these suggestions sound great.  It appears the market has seen the introduction of a plethora of alternatives to silicone oils in the past few years.

Perhaps blending two silicone oil alternatives that would mimic the sensory and performance characteristics of both dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane (D5) might be the optimal solution.

What are your thoughts on the idea of blending Inolex’s dimethicone alternative LexFeel N50 (Diheptyl Succinate & Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer) with Gobiotic’s D5 alternative Gosulin IL (Isoamyl Laurate & Isoamyl Cocoate)?

[spadirect]

I would prefer biodegradable alternatives to silicone.  I am only interested in replacing dimethicone if I can find something that performs equally or better. 

I have not checked out LexFeel N50 by Innolex.  I will now thanks to your suggestion.  Thanks so much!

Are there any other suggestions for potential candidates to replace dimethicone in a body lotion formulation?

[spadirect]

In addition to the ideal dimethicone alternative ingredient characteristics listed in the original post, I should add anti-foaming as another property the ideal replacement ingredient(s) would have.

[spadirect]

@ngarayeva001 Would you be referring to Lotioncrafter’s sodium carbomer product named PNC 400 Thickening Agent by 3V Sigma USA? 

I guess the idea would be progressively to add 0.1% of sodium carbomer at the final step of formulation until you achieve the desired level of viscosity? Thanks again.

[spadirect]

@ngarayeva001 I would expect to need to neutralize the formula.  I do not have a final formulation.  But I do know the general outlines of the potential target formulation.

Octyl Palmitate
Several oilseed oils and waxes (Apricot, Grapeseed, Canola, Sesame, Jojoba, Glycerin, Emulsifying Wax)
1,3 Propranediol
Aminomethyl Propanol (pH adjustment)
Dimethicone
Allantion
Vitamin E
Botanical extracts (no essential oils, just several botanical extracts)
Preservative system (not determined, ideally one that would work up to 6.0 pH)
Considering Carbomer or other rheology modifiers per Chemists Corner Forum contributors’ valuable advice

I have specifically considered using Carbopol Ultrez 30 Polymer (TM) or a combination of Carbopol Ultrez 10 NF (TM) with Ultrez 30 (products from The Lubrizol Corporation).  Although this idea is all just speculative on my part.  I really don’t know. 

As you can see, I have been debating with myself about which specific carbomer or combination of branded carbomer products would be ideal to use to achieve an easy, lush workability for licensed massage therapists at initial application while maintaining nice slip and lubrication through the rub out phase and ultimately attaining a pleasantly light weight and non-sticky skin after feel as perceived by massage clients.

I imagine the carbomer would be the most important rheology modifying ingredient in the formula.  I am neither wedded nor committed to the idea of using the above-cited ingredients or attaining a 5.5 pH for the final product.  The pH could vary as long as the rheology characteristics are nice.

Most importantly, what I would like to achieve with the massage lotion is the rheological, tribological and sensorial characteristics I have described above.

Which carbomer products and/or other rheology modifying ingredients and/or combinations thereof do you suspect might be a good starting point to include in a pilot formulation that would have the potential to achieve this type of sensorial profile for a massage lotion?

I would greatly appreciate any other Chemists Corner Forum contributors’ recommendations and comments in addition to @ngarayeva001.

[spadirect]

@ngarayeva001 thank you very much for your immensely informative and helpful posts!

If you were formulating (no ingredient cost concerns) an O/W full body professional massage therapy lotion (also containing botanical extracts and essential oils) with a target pH of 5.5 optimized for pleasant non-tacky skin feel aesthetics through the application, rub out and after feel sensorial perception by massage therapy clients, which rheology modifier (or combination of rheology/tribology modifiers) would you use in your formulation?

[spadirect]

Thanks, the article is very informative.

Everyone, please feel free to share your thoughts on my following layman’s logic.  In comparing the carbomer neutralizing chemicals (NaOH vs. AMP vs. TEA), assuming all other formulation benefits are equal among the three options (Please comment on this assumption as well.), it would seem best to use Aminomethyl Propanol as it would require the least amount of chemical to add to a formulation to perform its function of stabilizing and thickening carbomer in a lotion (oil-in-water) at a pH of 5.5.

Neutralization Ratio to Carbomer (Neutralization at pH 7.0)
NaOH  2.3/1.0
Aminomethyl Propanol  (AMP) 0.9/1.0
Triethanolamine  (TEA) 1.5/1.0
Data from Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc. (2009). Neutralizing Carbopol (Registered Trademark) and Pemulen (Trademark) in Aqueous and Hydroalcoholic Systems [Technical Data Sheet, TDS-237].

Thanks again for any comments.

[spadirect]

I should add that my lotion will also include carbomer in the formulation. 

How will my use of carbomer in the lotion impact whether AMP or TEA is the better option in this case?  I should mention I would like the lotion formulation to be globally-compliant.

Thanks again.

[spadirect]

Does TEA have additional performance benefits or advantages over AMP? 

In other words, besides pH adjusting properties, does TEA provide additional benefits to an oil-in-water emultion that AMP simply does not (or AMP does not do as well).

I anticipate using either AMP or TEA to make my lotion more alkaline.  If one ingredient has additional performance characteristics over the other, I would like to know.

Thanks again for any input.

[spadirect]

Which preservative system do you suspect may have a more effective broad spectrum action while maintaining lotion stability in an O/W leave-on body lotion (target pH range 5.4 - 5.6, 18 month shelf life) between the Akema Fine Chemicals’ preservative product brands KEM NAT (Benzyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Undecylenate) or KEM NAT β (Benzyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Benzoic Acid, Propanediol)?

Thanks!