Lang Ofigur
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BTW, these Metaupons are also sodium based contrarry to some ammouium based taurates.
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HI, check with Vantage-leuna.de
I got from them a samples of Metaupon OMT solid and pasty.
Pasty one is specified to have 38% actives but contains unreacted acids at around 15%. I combine it with Metaupon SI 57 with 56% actives, because I got free sample also. I used 6% Metaupon OMT pasty and 4% Metaupon SI 57. I like it because the cleanser remains transparent. If you add any beneficial oils you may have to heat it a bit. I like it to have a gell consistency and 1 or 2 % glycerol or glycol do wanders and keep it completely clear even when cooling down.
I like the look when the cleanser is completely clear and viscous but gives rich and luxurious lather when applied. For this I would not take something harsh , try bit of betaine. 2-3% is enough and gives me rich lather (I have Yeser CAB 45% actives).
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I got over this post looking for retinol formulations. Thank you for the useful suggestion. The sunny window rings all the bells. Retinol is sensitive and degrades exposed to sun or oxygen and we get all sorts of unpleasantly smelling notes as soon as the cream is opened.
Retinol is always tricky because it is known to cause irritations. I use Vitamin A propionate from BASF. BASF also has selfemulsifying Retinol GS50 and I combined both. Both develop rancid smell rather quickly. This is why the retinol products are heavily perfumed, which is sometimes OK, but not for a night cream, because you want it light. I was at InCosmetics fair this year in Amsterdam and met those guys from perfumes. When we came into discussion, I was suggested to drop heavy scents and use simply Aldehyde C11 Undecylenic because it cancels out the developing smell of any retinol cream. For facial creams they suggested in addition Violet Leaf Aldehyde. Those two make perfect accord. They together have very light hint of cucumber smell and hence it can be associated with natural home/made face mask. The trick is not to use them in a typical fragrance amount but much, much lower. I got sample diluted to 1% in triacetin and give 2 to 5 drops of each to my lab batch of 800 mL. Even after a week exposed to sun, the Vitamin A decollete cream did not smell bad. For the heavier eye cream I added just a hint of vanillin and Fema 2615. If you want fresher notes, such Vitamin A moisturiser goes well with citral and Surcide G50.