DIY_Newbie
Forum Replies Created
-
Sorry for the late response.
Thank you @ngarayeva001 for your feedback. I will look in grabbing a few ingredients you suggested and make it up. I appreciate your willingness to give feedback.
-
Thank you for the response @ngarayeva001.
I have beeswax and sodium borate as an emulsifier currently (I haven’t made a lotion in awhile and used this one).
I can pickup most anything online since I live in the U.S.
Are you suggesting this to be a W/O formula? If so what would my base oil be (mineral oil?). I do have rosehip oil and jojoba oil on hand.
What would you suggest for an emulsifier and oil base?
Thank you again for your response.
-
Thank you again for your replies. I will try it out and see how it goes. I will look into phenethyl alcohol and see if its available to buy in limited quantities. I appreciate all the feedback.
-
Thank you all for your comments.
ngarayeva001
Pharma
MarkBroussardPharma said:DIY_Newbie said:… I would use a paraben as a preservative (Paraben DU or Germaben II) but the surfactants I’m using are non ionic and will inactive parabens from my understanding. Is there any other options for me? Can I still use a paraben preservative system? Would this be preserved enough for 3ish months of use by itself(just Potassium Sorbate)?…As @ngarayeva001 said, 15% 1,3-propanediol is already self-preserving plus a very low pH, gluconolactone, gluconate, and citric acid (why use all three? Gluconolactone builds gluconate and that one does about the same than citric acid
), the rest is antioxidants. That cocktail is pure preservation :smiley: !I was intending to make sure I had no issues with preservation of the serum so I went a little overboard on the chelators. The sodium lactate is something I would like to keep at 4-6 percent though. The pH is desired to be around 2.7-3.0 (my face can handle low pH products without issue). Of the 3 which ones would you prefer would stay in and at what concentration? I will use sodium hydroxide to raise the pH up if its to low (below 2.5).
Pharma said:
If you want something to be on the super-safe side, go with a slightly volatile preservative to protect also head space. 2-Phenylethanol aka phenethyl alcohol but also anisic acid (not sure if pH well below 4 is okay for anisic acid) would come to mind. Sorbate is a good choice for low pH and low water activity products such as your serum since the main problematic microbes are yeasts and moulds but not bacteria.
What do you mean by “head space”. Just want to make sure confusing this with something else.
MarkBroussard said:@DIY_NewbieYou might be better off just using Gluconlactone, Sodium Benzoate, Calcium Gluconate … Geoguard Ultra or Gluconlactone SB instead of the individual ingredients … it’s a pre-mix preservative blend. One ingredient instead of 3 separate ingredients.
I do have Gluconolactone SB (NeoDefend is what is was called when I bought it) on hand by I saw a disclaimer mentioning that the Sodium Bezonate can be converted into Benzoate.
This is from Lotioncrafters:
“There is some concern that Sodium Benzoate, one of the ingredients in NeoDefend, in combination with L-Ascorbic Acid in products can form Benzene, a known human carcinogen”.
It does mention that other conditions are needed (UV light exposure, heat, and metallic ions). I was just trying to eliminate any possible issues arising and avoided it incase something didn’t go right. Do you think I went a bit overboard on the Chelators too?
Again thank you so much for taking the time to respond.
-
Thank you Pharma for the reply. I will cut out a lot of the additional ingredients and simply it down to just a few proven ingredients. I appreciate all the comments and feedback.
-
Thank you EVchem and Perry for your responses. The goal IS to make a product that works (benefiting the skin). My assumption is that skin care is used to clean, feed, and protect the skin and I want to applying products that will accomplish that.
To EVchem questions and comments
“good god how is the smell?”:When mixing the ingredients, only the olive leaf extract had a significant odor (not nauseating by any means) It was dulled when everything was added near the end of the formation. Once done I didn’t notice any real odor that seemed good or bad. Although I made this a couple weeks ago so I’ll see if that changes over time.
“Do you have any idea of stability of this formula is over time?”
I have no idea what the stability of this serum is. I haven’t done any testing since I’m just doing this as a hobby I suppose.
“your preservation system looks weak, you have chelators but your only preservative is potassium sorbate at 0.2%?”
I used what was the recommended percentage by MakingCosmetics. They said “Typical concentration 0.15-0.3% (if used alone) or 0.1-0.2% (if used in combination with other preservatives)”. I also used Glucono delta Lactone which was an ingredient from Lotioncrafters and was a part of an ingredient for the preservative “NeoDefend”. I thought it would behave as a preservative. Should I have used more potassium sorbate?
“pH strips are not very accurate, a pH of 3 could be very irritating.”
I’m looking into getting a quality pH meter but haven’t purchased one at this time. It was just for a sanity check (I was intending the serum to have a pH between 2.5 and 3) Most Vitamin C (L-ascorbic Acid) serums have around this pH, should I be concerned?
“Vitamin E oil (vitamin E acetate I assume, side note try to use INCI names for all ingredients)”
The vitamin E oil I used is d-alpha-tocopherol.This is intended to be a personal product since I am not a chemist, chemical engineer, or any other relatable field of occupation. I do have an interest in making a good product, but I am only an alchemist at best at this point. I’m here to understand what works, what doesn’t, and learn how to apply it to make a good skincare product.
To Perry’s question and comments“I don’t like to include any ingredient in a formula unless I can demonstrate that it makes a difference.”
THIS is what I want to know. What is useful (according to current reliable data) and what is not. Any insight into what ingredients (or combination of ingredients) are going to make an impact.
“You say “anti-oxidant” but what does that even mean to you? What oxidation are you trying to prevent? How do you know these ingredients prevent it?”
My intention was to use antioxidants to aid in various applications. Some aid in skin health while some regenerate other antioxidants. This is the paper I used to “inspire” this attempt of a serum.https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5514578/
I don’t know if this paper is useful or junk but I used it as a starting point. Thank you so much for taking the time to critique me. Sorry for writing a book but I just wanted to answer the question you had for me.
-
Thank you for your response Perry (sorry I misspelled the name of the acid in the title)! I was just curious as to what the opinions are of this ingredient as to wether or not its worth it in a cosmetic product, and if anyone has had experience with this ingredient. Also I was curious about sodium stabilized ALA as an alternative to the R/S mix of ALA (assuming someone has had experience with it).
I’m attempting to make a antioxidant serum. I currently have Alpha Lipoic Acid, Resveratrol, CoQ10, Vitamin E, C, A, Gluathoine, and Ferulic Acid in the recipe. Here is a copy of the complete recipe.
Ingredients Percentage Phase A Water (Distilled) 26 MSM (Methylsulfonylmethane) 5 Vitamin A Liposomes 1 Na-R-ALA 2.5 Gluathoine 1 Phase B Propanediol 1,3 19 Ferulic Acid 0.5 Trans-Resveratrol 1 Olive Leaf Extract 1.5 CoQ10 Powder 0.5 Phase C Water (Distilled) 20 Poly Suga Mulse D9 4 Vitamin E Oil 1 Phase D Mix A and B 58 Potasium Sorbate 0.2 Glucono Delta Lactone 0.3 Sodium Gluconate 0.5 Add C 25 Vitamin C 15 Hyaluronic Acid (1000kDa) 1 The whole recipe is cold processed. I’m unsure if this is a good formula for an antioxidant rich serum. The final pH is around 3.0 (used a pH strip) and store it in an airless bottle. Any feedback is appreciated (good or bad).
Thank you again for your time.