[Cosmetic76]

ketchito said:

@Cosmetic76 For an o/w emulsion like yours, it’s best to add the oil to the water phase, since internal forces will help you get a very fine droplet size, which favors the stability of your emulsion. In the process you describe, the supplier is leaving quite some water in the phase C to help cool down the batch faster, but you need to add it in small amounts not to cause phase inversion. This part is critical, and you need to be very careful if you plan to do the industrial scale-up, especially for the cooling rate. 

Thank you for your advice. Will definitely make sure to add it very slowly. I am looking for just making a couple of litres so nothing industrial. As for adding the oil to water, it does make sense, I agree. I’ve not had stability issues so far with my creams probably because I made small amounts, if I do make large amounts I will add it the other way around to be on the safe side as you suggested. 

[Cosmetic76]

 you need a 50%50% mixture of water+propylene glycol to get 2% solubility of SA 

Thank you for your reply. would you say it’s 2g into 50g glycol then mixed with 50g water? Or 2g direct into a mixture of glycol and water?
Would you recommend heating to a certain temperature to aid the process?

[Cosmetic76]

I think you both are correct that it’s my fat phase that’s definitely affecting the after feel too. This is due to the ‘natural’ status so I am not using silicones etc. Pentylene glycol might be a good idea to try, thank you. I’ll also swap to some ‘siliconey’ feeling oils too, like Meadowfoam rather than the heavy sunflower. I appreciate your suggestions.

[Cosmetic76]

I really love how quickly creams with Olivem absorb and how dry it feels, but it does leave sort of an invisible film on the skin, which is good as a barrier cream but I’m looking for something less filmy.

[Cosmetic76]

hi yes I have. I agree it feels more airy and I quite like it. however unfortunately everyone I asked to test it said the cream feels like there’s candle wax on their hands after it absorbs. Would you have an idea how to make it feel less waxy? Suppose a bit more wet? I tried all sorts, olivwax, brassica alcohol, etc.. 

[Cosmetic76]

autocorrect..I meant “and isoamyl cocoate”

[Cosmetic76]

I was thinking of using some isoamyl laurate and concate to make it less greasy, but I’ll be using an infused sunflower oil as part of the oil phase. Would you suggest using another oil for the infusion? 

[Cosmetic76]

I have just emailed them. The formula was really as basic as it gets just a test to see how it behaves : sunflower oil, montanov and water.