[chemist-chef]

Hi..

Since PBSA is an acid, you need to neutralize it to pH around 6-7, until all PBSA are dissolved. You can use AMP95 or TEA to neutralize PBSA.

This neutralization (Acid + Base), creates a salt, that we all know that salts are usually electrolytes. First thing you need to do is find thickener/polymer and also emulsifiers that resistant to electrolyte so you can thicken your formula. Example for electrolyte-resistant polymer is Sepimax Zen, but if you want to have powerful electrolyte-resistance polymers, you can combine Sepimax Zen with Solagum Tara. Both are supplied by Seppic. And for emulsifiers, you can try Montanov 82.

If you want to make O/W cream, you can combine those polymers and add some wax to help improve the viscosity of your formulation. You can use Cetyl alcohol.

If you want to achieve SPF 50, i’m not sure you can achieve it only with PBSA. Usually need to combine it with other UV filter.

[chemist-chef]

The soaping effect may be caused by the solubilizer that you use in the formula. PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate is a nonionic surfactant and also able to create foam.

Maybe you can use a nonfoaming solubilizer, such as Heptyl Glucoside (Sepiclear G7) supplied by Seppic. It’s a nonfoaming solubilizer, so it won’t form bubbles or foam in your formulation.

If you use dimethicone, it can decrease the soaping effect, but, your formulation can’t be clear anymore since dimethicone is an oil, while your formulation is an aqueous gel.

[chemist-chef]

Hello,

I have experience in formulating anhydrous formula with polysorbate inside.

I assume that liquid at the bottom of the stick is polysorbate-80.

Based on my previous experience, polysorbate can’t completely miscible with oil phase and will precipitate since it has higher density than the oil.

May i know why you add polysorbate in your hair wax formulation? I think you don’t need to add polysorbate. Usually i add polysorbate in anhydrous formulation such as cleansing balm or stick as a surfactant/cleanser. But in hair wax, you don’t need surfactant inside.

[chemist-chef]

Hi,

I think you can try Iscaguard OPP (INCI : Propylene glycol, O-Phenylphenol)

“Iscaguard OPP is a liquid preservative containing O-Phenolphenol. This preservative has a wide spectrum of activity, and can tolerate high pH environments ranging from 3.0-14.0, and also high processing temperature of 200°C.”

Since it has very low solubility in water, you can try to dissolve this preservative in surfactant, after that you can introduce it with your water phase.

[chemist-chef]

Hi,

I assume you need to reduce the pH of this shampoo because the preservative system that you use (Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic Acid (and) Dehydroacetic Acid) only effective under pH 6.5.

My question is : why you use 2 preservatives (both contain phenoxyethanol) in one formulation? Phenoxyethanol 1% and Phenoxyethanol+Benzoic Acid+Dehydroacetic Acid blend 0.5%?

But I’m not so sure the crystallization occur in your formulation because of the pH.

I see the incompatibility between surfactant and conditioning agent that you use in this shampoo.

You use anionic surfactant Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate (10%) and cationic conditioning agent Amodimethicone, Cetrimonium Chloride, Alpha-Glucan Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Quaternium-95. And also Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum that tends to have better compatibility with cationic materials. I assume the crystallization occurs because of this anionic-cationic incompatibilities.

My suggestions:

- if you still want to use these cationic conditioning agents, you can
replace the anionic surfactant and use only nonionic and amphoteric
surfactants. But if you have no anionic surfactant at all in cleansing formulation, i guess the
cleansing ability of this shampoo will be not as good as if you use
anionic surfactant, since anionic surfactants are the surfactant with best cleansing ability.

- you can replace these cationic conditioning agent with Polyquartenium-7. PQ-7 is also cationic, but has much better compatibility with anionic surfactant.

Please correct me if my answer is wrong.

Thank you

[chemist-chef]

Hi..

I did a laboratory trial for EDT with some glitter inside. I use Sepimax Zen 0.25%.

You can add Sepimax Zen into your Aqua&Alcohol mixture. But you need to mix it with rotor stator to make it swell faster. To calculate the evaporation, i weigh the empty beaker glass first before adding any material inside. After that, i will add water + alcohol + sepimax zen, then i will mix it with rotor stator until all sepimax zen is completely homogenous and make sure there are no lumps of Sepimax Zen left. (Cover the beaker with Aluminium foil to minimize the evaporation during mixing)

After that you calculate the evaporation, then add the rest ingredient.

It stable over months and sepimax zen is good enough to suspend particle in hydroalcoholic liquid like EDT. The viscosity is slightly increased, but it still sprayable very well.

You can contact Seppic distributor in your country to get the sample.

[chemist-chef]

Some cleansing oil/shower oil use MIPA-Laureth Sulfate, it is a surfactant that can be miscible in oil-based/waterfree cleansing formula. I don’t have any experience with this surfactant, but i guess it can miscible with your formulation. May be you can try use this surfactant in your hair wax.

[chemist-chef]

Hi, thank you for the insight about O-Phenylphenol.

But I just check the Annex V,List of Preservatives Allowed in Cosmetic Products, O-Phenylphenol is still in the allowed preservative for cosmetic products.

<div>It is stated : The use of o-phenylphenol as a preservative should be allowed with a
maximum concentration of 0,15 % (as phenol) in leave-on and 0,2 % (as
phenol) in rinse-off cosmetic products.

Contact with eyes should be avoided.</div>

May be it’s not recommended for cleansing balm or any kind of products that may contact with eyes, but it’s still allowed as cosmetic preservative.

Thank you for the insight.

• This reply was modified 5 months, 1 week ago by  chemist-chef.