[arhlene.lyons]

Oh horror! After about 6 weeks my above shampoo split. I have decided on Carbopol Ultrez 21 as a Carbomer. Starting steps-

Water 52.3%

EDTA 0.2%

pH between 6-7

Carbomer 2%

Let stand for 30 min with periodic mixing (manual)

Add AOS 10%

Coco glucoside 3%

CAPB 18%

Propandiol 1.3 3%

Hydrolysed Wheat protein 3%

PQ 7 3%

PQ 10 1%

Allantoin 0.3%

Argan oil 2% ( This was a later addition as comb through was terrible. I may have added to much at 2% as hair feels nice but perhaps weighted down).

Disperse 0.2% GHPC in 2% Dimethicone 350, then add.

Balance is EO and LGP.

Will the Carbopol stabilise the shampoo so it doesn’t split especially after adding the oil?

Can I use 2% of the water to dissolve the PQ 10 or will it cause problems because it’s not mixed with the Carbomer?

There are small (not a lot) insolubilised matter. I think it’s the Carbomer. I don’t know what to do to solubilise it. An option is to use Acrypol ET 1 (liquid).

Any help would be very appreciated.

[arhlene.lyons]

I don’t have access to Carbopol 980. Will 990 or 940 work? I do have Acrypol ET-1 (liquid) but I can’t get that to work. Thank you for your help in this.

[arhlene.lyons]

Hi juggsy. Sorry i miss spoke. It feels… i suppose oily. I love that emulsifier. My Body butters are made with it. I will give it a try in the BBombs just for the experience.

I have left the best news for last. I made the changes as you suggested. They came out great. Foaming was what i wanted and yes, they spin. I’m so great full. Thank you.

I didn’t eliminate the Tapioca all together but reduced it to 1%. My thinking was that it would make the bomb last a little longer. I added 0.2 % PEG 40… it possibly helped. Can’t say. It was raining so drying wasn’t an issue.

Thank you so much.

[arhlene.lyons]

Hi Juggsy.

Oh my goodness, you have helped me with such good advice. I’m going to give it a bash now. Just curious about a few things. I’m in South Africa so we have dry winters and summer rainfall (not so much now due to global warming). I bought a humidifier too and put it on when air is dry. What emulsifier could I use for the wet days. A liquid? I’m going to persevere with the P80 but drop the amount. I hand press and press the living daylights out of the bombs. So great full I can calm down with that.

For interest sake, some folks use P20 and then reduce the water amount. Is P20 less soapy?

Great full for your time and advice.

Arhlene

[arhlene.lyons]

I mean my hair feels really thick. The shampoo thickness is perfect.

[arhlene.lyons]

Hi Ketchito. Thank you for your response. I changed the recipe and got a better result. I increased the Anionic and Amphoteric SF and decreased the Glucoside. Adding that to the water. Brought down the pH and then thickened with salt. I found that I could go up to 4%. Do you think I’m treading on thin ice?

I dropped the Xanthan gum (maybe that caused problems- don’t know). Texture is much better.

Recipe as follows:

Aqua 43.5%

Hostapur AOS 40 -20%

Decyl 3%

CAPB 19%

Citric- 0.1%

Salt -4 % ( Too high?)

Tocopherol acetate- 0.3%

EO- 1%

Allantoin- 2% ( because sF are mid range, I thought to protect the scalp- will probably wash off but I have lots.😊

Glycerine 5%. Will take your advice and drop it to a lower %.

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.1% . Keeping it low because it’s Cationic. It also coats the hair a little and maybe not good for a Clarifying shampoo.

LGP- 0.5%

Polyquaternium 7-0.5%.

It’s a strange sequence but I needed to see when a problem occurred.

The Carbopol -is it then for suspension more than thickening. Also, would you use it when using PEG 40 Dimethicone? I would like to add it to my next shampoo. ( not the clarifying one).

Sorry for all the questions and thanks again for your help.

[arhlene.lyons]

Thank you for your help ketchito. Im waiting for a Sodium Lauroyl sarcosinate delivery before continuing.

I make brilliant shampoo pucks (bars) and was wondering about switching to that Anionic sf I.e SCI. I know that you dissolve it in CAPB but that it may hydrolyze out. What does that mean? Settle out? Will this happen under certain conditions eg concentrations, other ingredients? Should I avoid it?

[arhlene.lyons]

Thank you ketchito. I will do that. Do you think the Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and the Sodium Lauroyl sarcosinate will be okay together?

[arhlene.lyons]

Hi Aniela.

Thank you so much for your help. I will choose another glucoside and look at the article.

I am determined to get this right.