AnaK
Forum Replies Created
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Thank you so much for all the lovely details, I will surely try many of these tricks.
I read in some forum that the lotion’s feel is largely determined by the emulsifier, hence the question. Thank you for the clarification.
To your point of Pentylene Glycol, I have a feeling that it we use this one, it improves the absorption, and therefore lowers the playtime, making the lotion dry or draggy. So I am using 3% Glycerine and 1-2% Propandiol. I can try Sodium Lactate 60% solution, as I dont have Sodium Lactate - But I fear that it may destabilize Heliosoft. I also have Pentaviderm, do you think this is good?
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Hello,
I am also struggling to find Hydrogenated Lecithin from Sunflower. Please let me know if you found it
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Thank you so much for your advice. Yes we tried with Dimethicone and it works like magic. But we cannot use Dimethicone as our formulation needs to be free of silicones. We tried to use Isoamyl Laurate and Triheptanoin, and these helped to a large extent, but not fully.
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This reply was modified 4 months ago by AnaK.
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This reply was modified 4 months ago by
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Thank you so much for your time and suggestions.
No we have never worked with Solagum GM. We have made one sample with Solagum AX 0.5% and Xanthan Gum X 34 0.3%, and the pilling was very less, but it had microfoaming.
I tried to make it with 0.5% Xanthan Gum and 1% Phospholipon 80, and was good. But we didn’t go that route thinking that formulations with Hydrogenated Lecitin might not be very stable in the long run? What do you think?
Can someone help with this question - will there always be pilling whenever we use a gum, expecially Xanthan gum? Or is there a way to control it without removing the gum - maybe by adding an emulsifier, or increasing penetration agents such as Pentylene Glycol?
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Hello, I am able to make add upto 1-2% of oil phase (Isoamyl laurate and Squalane mainly) with all these different gelling agents:
- Xanthan Gum X 34 (0.5)
- Siligel (0.5-1%)
- Ecogel 0.5% and Xanthan gum X 34 - 0.3%
These all passed the stability tests of centrifuge at 3000 rpm. The only issue we have is slight pilling after application of serum, followed by face oil or sunscreen. Did anyone try this? If yes, how did you overcome the pilling?
We have reduced pilling to a great extent by adding Pentylene Glycol (which improves absorption and therefore reduces the film formation). But it is still there. Is there any other way to reduce pilling? May be by changing oil%?
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Thank you so much for all your help. We make lotions with Heliofeel and also with Heliosoft, and both were decent textures - but these are more mattifying lotions, and the feel is not rich or moist during or after application. These look very different from the Lotions or creams in the market.
Texture of the lotion with Polyaquol 2W was the best, but it soaped a lot (even with 6% Isoamyl Laurate) and 0.5% Cetyl Alcohol (Total oil percent was 10.2%, and Polyaquol 2W was 2%, Cetyl Alcohol 0.5%). I added Polyaquol 2W in the oil phase. Please advice.
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Thank you for all your valuable recommendations always. I am also confused between Heliofeel and Heliosoft for my serums and moisturizers. But Heliofeel has comedogenic ingredients which is deterring us from using it. For this reason, we now have to reformulate everything with Heliosoft.
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Thank you for your advice, I will try with lower Olivem 1000.
Which other emulsifiers you suggest that have good skin feel (non-waxy, no white rub) - we are looking for the Cosmos approved ones only. We tried with Montanov 202 but it also soaps too much. I am currently experimenting with Hydrogenated Lecithin (2% Hydrogenated Lecithin for 12.5% oils, but it failed the Centrifuge test - will continue with more trials). We have not tried Ritamulse yet.
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Thank you, I will check with them
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Hello Richard,
Would you be able to recommend the source for Hydrogenated Lecithin. We had sample from Lipoid, but now they are out of stock, and next batch is becoming available only in 14 months!!
We tried from Cosphatec also, but their price is 4 times more - EUR 950/Kg, with MOQ of 5KG
Please can you help with a good supplier of Hydrogenated Lectihing (Sample Supplier shops are also fine). Please help
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Thank you for your reply. There are no actives in the emulsion yet, we did centrifuge before adding any actives. This contains 2% Heliofeel, 4.7% oil phase, 0.3% Xanthan Gum and Water - thats it. The other one contains 1.5% Heliofeel, 4.7% oil phase, 0.3% Xanthan Gum. The Oil phase is - Isoamyl Laurate, Squalane, Sea Buckthorn, Vitamin E, and 0.1% Essential oil blend
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Thank you so much, this is very helpful. We were able to create some emulsions with Hydrogenated lecithin at 1%, and Xanthan Gum at 0.4% - with non-sticky and beautiful texture. However, when we do centrifuge test, the emulsion is stable except for some white frothy material on top. Please check this picture if it looks familiar to you. This remains even if we decrease Hydrogenated Lecithin content. We think that this could be the bubbles formed in emulsification - what do you think?
We also made some serums with Heliofeel 22 by Lucas Meyer. They also had a similar froth. Picture attached for reference
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Thank you, I didn’t know about it. When I checked, I came to know that it does not support adding oils. How is your experience with it? We are planning to try with Sclerotium Gum and Solagum Tara once.
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Thank you for the suggestion of Olivem. We have not tried it with Olivem yet, as I heard that it brings soapiness which is hard to remove. And do you think it is good for a light weight serum, not a lotion. We want a very light serum which needs to be followed by a face moisturizer.
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Thank you for the suggestion of D6 and D9. We have D9 but dont like to use it unless it is absolutely necessary. In this serum we are adding oil to improve the serum texture, and also to reduce the stringiness of the gums
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Thank you very much for the advise, we formulated a serum with 0.7% Phospholipon 80, and 0.4% Xanthan Gum. It is a very nice texture serum, with light feel, and also passed the Centrifuge stability test at 3000 rpm. We will do the freeze thaw cycles. Is there anything else you would advise us to test to be sure if it is stable in the long run?
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Thank you for sharing, I found this very insightful, as we are currently struggling with Pilling issue with in different face serums with 1% oil phase and different gums (no emulsifiers). We saw pilling in Siligel, and Xanthan Gum. Pilling reduced in Ecogel + Xanthan X 34 combimation, but was still there. Pilling was lease in Solagum AX + Xanthan Gum, but to be tested further.
I would love to hear any suggestions from someone who as been able to overcome this pilling challenge in a serum formulation. Thank you.