Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Whitening toner/serum for face

  • Whitening toner/serum for face

    Posted by Anonymous on December 14, 2018 at 4:05 pm

    hello everyone! Happy to join the form. 

    I did a toner for whitening and when I apply it I feel a burning/warming sensation, is this normal or should I remove lemon peel?

    My formula is as follows:
    Neroli water 76%
    Hylournic acid 1%
    Aloe vera 1%
    Witch hazel 1%
    Kojic acid 3%
    Licorice 7%
    Niacinamide 5%
    NAC 2%
    Lemon peel bioferment 2%
    vitamin E 1%
    Preservative 1%

    Microformulation replied 5 years, 11 months ago 3 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • Doreen

    Member
    December 14, 2018 at 4:38 pm

    What preservative do you use? Sorbic acid or potassium sorbate can give flushing-like sensations like you describe.

    Neroli and witch hazel can be potential irritants.
    7% licorice is a lot by the way! That toner must be quite dark in colour!
    With NAC you mean NAG?

  • Microformulation

    Member
    December 14, 2018 at 4:45 pm
    Kojic acid is unstable and also causes some inflammation. Hence the need for a sunscreen and other measures. These are not harmless actives.
    Kojic acid Dipalmitate is more stable but oil soluble.
    Niacinamide is also an irritant.
  • MJL

    Member
    December 16, 2018 at 7:46 am

    On the Reddit sub r/SkincareAddiction, there is a small group of people there who experience allergic-like reactions to aloe vera (burning, stinging, redness, even a rash). Sounds bizarre, as it is supposed to be such a soothing ingredient -  but, could be a possibility that you are similarly “allergic”?

    (These folks were using either raw aloe gel directly from the plant, or low-processed products [ex: aloe gels with very few added ingredients]).

  • MJL

    Member
    December 16, 2018 at 7:51 am

    @Microformulation Is Niacinamide really an irritant at 5%? I have only read that it is potentially irritating at higher percentages, such as 10%. Is there is some information I am not aware of? Also, isn’t it only Niacin (not Niacinamide) that causes skin flushing? 

  • MJL

    Member
    December 16, 2018 at 7:54 am

    @noraf Did you check the pH of your final product? I’d be curious to know what you found, if you did.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    December 16, 2018 at 1:59 pm

    It is not unheard of to get some irritation at 5%. I will look for the citation later, bi it is even more pronounced in person’s of Asian descent.

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