Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating W/O or O/W?

  • W/O or O/W?

    Posted by lushderma on August 17, 2020 at 1:45 pm

    This is an ingredient list for a ‘revitalising cream’ it seems to be using a W/O emulsifier (Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate) as the primary emulsifier but I can’t really see a high HLB emulsifier to complement it. So would this be classed as a W/O emulsion? 

    Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Octyldodecanol, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, Alcohol Denat. (SD Alcohol 40-B), Albizia Julibrissin (Persian Silk Tree) Bark Extract, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate, Pullulan, Lauryl Glucoside, Geraniol, Parfum (Fragrance), Citronellol, Limonene, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Linalool, Maltodextrin, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Fruit Extract, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Leontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture, Trihydroxystearin, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Pelvetia Canaliculata (Algae) Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Sorbic Acid, Citral, Sodium Hyaluronate, Farnesol, Citric Acid.

    lushderma replied 4 years, 1 month ago 5 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 17, 2020 at 2:16 pm

    It’s not w/o. I can see surfactants and water phase stabilisers. There is no salt, and no oil phase stabilisers, which I would expect to see in w/o. My guess would be that it’s the surfactants that act like high HLB emulsifiers here.

  • lushderma

    Member
    August 17, 2020 at 3:25 pm

    OK, interesting. Thanks for the reply.

  • Pharma

    Member
    August 17, 2020 at 3:47 pm
    Surfactants are nothing more than high HLB emulsifiers ;) . Where to draw a line between surfactants and emulsifiers is an arbitrary choice and giving that line a precise HLB value is completely nonsensical.
    Apart from that subtlety, I fully agree with @ngarayeva001.
  • Bill_Toge

    Member
    August 18, 2020 at 11:30 pm

    another possibility is that the ingredients list is incomplete; the only way to be sure is to examine the product physically

  • lushderma

    Member
    August 19, 2020 at 11:02 pm

    Thanks. Physically it feels just like any other moisturiser (not too heavy, etc) which I guess would suggest it’s O/W

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 20, 2020 at 8:33 am

    You can’t guess by the feel of it. There are w/o moisturizers that are gel like and have exceptionally light feel. Sisley Black Rose moisturiser or La Mer eye concentrate  would be good examples. W/Os generally repel water although it’s hard to establish type of emulsion this way.

  • Pattsi

    Member
    August 20, 2020 at 3:05 pm

    maybe Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate is used as a blender for Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Octyldodecanol and other oil then trap in water gel.

    is it Emma Hardie Midas Touch Revitalising Cream?
    i’m 
    curious too how they made it.

  • lushderma

    Member
    August 20, 2020 at 6:57 pm

    @Pattsi yes it is!

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