Sunscreen formulation with Avobenzone

Formulating

Sunscreen formulation with Avobenzone

Posted by vjay on December 4, 2013 at 6:54 am

I am developing Sunscreen formulation in that I am using Avobenzone & as per the literature we have to use Octocrylene for photo stabilization.

But I have seen many formulas (Market products) in that they are not using octocrylene, all most all the people are using Avobenzone & Octyl methoxy cinnamate in their formula.

I want to know that Octyl methoxy cinnamate is giving the photo stabilization.

pma replied 11 years ago 4 Members · 8 Replies
8 Replies

pma

Member
December 4, 2013 at 2:30 pm

OMC destabilizes the AVO (AVO is already naturally very unstable). On the other hand OCT stabilizes (in part) AVO.

To be sincere, just in the USA I still see combinations of AVO + OMC… Since they have few approved UV filters. You’ll not find easily this combination in the rest of the world.

You can’t achieve a high or a even moderate UV-A protection using just OMC and AVO. On the other hand, you can achieve a relatively acceptable UV-A protection using OCT + AVO.
Duncan

Member
December 4, 2013 at 6:17 pm

Before the patent situation became less fraught, the combo of OCR/BMBM and EHMC was not that common over here in the UK. 4-MBC was used instead, howver, from what I remember the FDA hasn’t approved this active, and is unlikely to. It is these days a somewhat out of date active
vjay

Member
December 5, 2013 at 3:27 am
I have studied of below mentioned products bench mark & they are using only AVO + OMC recently in india not out date in india.
- Vaseline Healthy White
- Parachute Summer Fresh
- Nivea whitening cell repair and UV protect
- Lotus white glow body lotion.
You can check into the net for the ingredient details.

I don’t know how they stabilize AVO
Duncan

Member
December 5, 2013 at 3:32 am

If those are skincare products with “Added UV protection” but no hard claims about a measured (or measurable) SPF they probably don’t bother
vjay

Member
December 5, 2013 at 5:54 am

Here question is not for the SPF but I want to know that these all the products are photo stable ?

Without octocrylene ?

They are not facing any photo stability issues ?
pma

Member
December 6, 2013 at 4:53 pm

As Duncan said, they are just ‘skincare products with “Added UV protection”‘, not sunscreens. So they aren’t too concerned about UV-A protection, photostability etc. Some companies are more carefully with UV-A protection than others… You won’t find this combination in L’oréal products for instance (even skincare ones).

To test the photostability of the products you will need to order specific tests. Anyway, any product for UV protection is 100% photostable, some are more or less than others.
ChemWizard

Member
December 7, 2013 at 8:16 pm

Guys, when we talk about photo-stabilization, does it mean discoloration due to light or temp?

I am working with a Sunscreen with AVO, OCT and OCM combination and it turns yellow at pH around 7..
What might be the culprit?
pma

Member
December 8, 2013 at 12:11 am

“Guys, when we talk about photo-stabilization, does it mean discoloration due to light or temp?”.

No. Actually, the “performance” of the sunscreen on your skin after a period under the sun… A good article about this:

http://www.hallstar.com/pdf/SunscreenPhotostability101.pdf

I strongly recommend you don’t use OMC with AVO even with OCT. Another article explaining why:

How does Octinoxate Degrade Avobenzone? http://thetriplehelixian.com/2012/10/13/how-does-octinoxate-degrade-avobenzone/

You can use OCM with ZnO (ZnO is a wonderful sunscreen active in my personal opinion). Or if you want to use AVO you can use OCT and other filters instead of OCM, like Ensulizole, Octisalate etc.