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Sensory enhancement
Hello Everybody!!
Recently I have formulated a skin cream as per bellow mentioned formula :-
Face Cream(100 gm):-
DM Water qs
EDTA 0.10%
Niacinamide 5%
Glycerine 3%
Dicaprylyl carbonate 5%
Undecane & Tridecane 5%
Dimethicone 2%
Cyclopentasiloxane(and) Dimethiconol 5%
Sepinov EMT 10 0.90%
Sepimax zen 0.50%
Simusol 165 3.5%
Cetyl Alcohol 3%
BHT 0.15%
Turmeric oil 0.10%
Retinyl Palmitate 2%
Euxyl pe 9010 1%
Fragrance qs
The final product has good sensory except a very negligible sticky afterfeel for few minutes.
I have 1)cetyl Palmitate, 2)Cyclopentasiloxane, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, 3) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, 4)Phenyl Trimethicone in stock.
How can I restructure the formula by adding/replacing or avoiding any of these ingredients to enhance the thermal stability & Skin feel during & after application.
Inviting your valuable suggestions. Thanks in advance.4
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6 Replies
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Since you are using light esters, I can assume that the styckiness may comes from the rheology modificators - the polymers, and maybe the cetyl alcohol. Try to reduce the polymers, and see what will happen.
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@ggpetrov, Thanks for the comments. I have tried both ways; by decreasing polymers & cetyl alcohol. Not able to achieve proper Viscosity to sustain summer temperatures.
Will Cetostearyl be less sticky?
OR Shall I combine cetyl or Cetostearyl alcohol with cetyl Palmitate?
I also have C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Caprylic/ Capryc Triglyceride in stock. Will they be useful?
Pl share your thoughts.
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The sensorial profile of the product depends of the personal taste of everyone. Me personally don’t like any stickyness, so I would avoid Simulsol 165 as emulsifier. I don’t like it just because in any combination it gives haptically unpleasant textures. For a non sticky texture with a noticeable moisturizing effect I would suggest you to use Glyceryl stearate SE in combination with co emulsifier ( Emulsan for example) or Glyceryl stearate citrate - again with co emulsifier ( W/O would be best). Also rerinol palmitate is too much I guess. Since it’s oil it can cause this stickyness.
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Well. It is too late to go for emulsifyer change. Also I had stability issues in past with GSC.
I have to achieve Sensory improvements by some other route. Thanks for reply.
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I would take @ggpetrov ‘s advice and drastically reduce the % of retinyl palmitate.
For two reasons: it does cause a sticky feel which is exacerbated by it’s slower absorption rate, and it might not be safe at that %.
The second reason is based on SCCS’ opinion which says “- via face cream at the maximum concentration of 0.3% may lead to daily systemic dose of 1185 IU for an adult. This exposure could constitute up to 24% of the UL of 5000 IU/day of Vitamin A. Therefore, the SCCS considers that the use of Vitamin A in face cream products per se is safe.” https://health.ec.europa.eu/publications/vitamin-retinol-retinyl-acetate-retinyl-palmitate_en
Even if you’re not in Europe, you’re using 2% which is 6.(6) times higher than 0.3%=> which gives a daily systemic dose way higher than the recommended 5000 IU/day (7900 UI)- that is if your costumer does not eat anything containing vitamin A, which is highly improbable. That could prove a dangerous daily systemic dose for any adult, healthy or not.
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@Aniela, Thank you for much for those detailing.
Shall try a batch with lower dose of Retinyl Palmitate.
Present dose of Retinyl Palmitate was due to the fact that it is an esterified version of retinol which is not that potent.
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