Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Resveratrol solubility

  • Resveratrol solubility

    Posted by belassi on November 19, 2016 at 11:49 pm

    I thought licorice was difficult but this is worse. Just about the only solvent I can discover is PEG-400
    I’ve never heard of PEG-400, is it suitable for use in a cosmetic cream? Anyone?

    belassi replied 8 years, 3 months ago 3 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • chickenskin

    Member
    November 20, 2016 at 6:29 am

    PEG-400 (PEG-8) is suitable in a cream or lotion.  you can get it through acme hardesty or hallstar.  its from sugar cane or coco fatty acids.

  • johnb

    Member
    November 20, 2016 at 10:39 am

    By far the majority of PEG-400 is a product of the oil refinery. Be very careful how you source it if “natural” is important to you.

  • johnb

    Member
    November 20, 2016 at 2:47 pm

    Oops. Half of my reply (above) has disappeared into cyberspace.

    I went on to say that I’ve never had success in making a cosmetically acceptable solution of resveratrol although I’ve not tried PEG-400.

  • belassi

    Member
    November 20, 2016 at 3:50 pm

    I’ve never had success in making a cosmetically acceptable solution of resveratrol 
    I was afraid of hearing something like that, and coming from a highly experienced chemist too. Yes, after reading an awful lot of literature over the past few days I have been having serious doubts.

  • johnb

    Member
    November 20, 2016 at 4:29 pm

    A material with some similar properties to resveratrol is maritime pine bark extract (Pycnogenol).

    This is soluble in water and may suit your purpose.

    Note that Pycnogenol is a brand name. Unbranded MPBE is a lot lower cost.

  • belassi

    Member
    November 20, 2016 at 5:16 pm

    Lemon peel bioferment looks interesting too. I just ordered some of that pine bark extract.

  • belassi

    Member
    November 20, 2016 at 8:33 pm

    Well since I have the sample I think I will try it. Solubility in alcohol is good so I’ll use 50% of (70% ethanol), and 5% propylene glycol as penetration enhancer. In airless container.

  • belassi

    Member
    November 21, 2016 at 6:27 pm

    Since I have the sample my wife has been asking me to use it. Oh well. I don’t have any PEG400 solvent so I will have to use ethanol. I discovered a BASF formula for a face cream that has 15% ethanol in it. Hopefully I can dissolve the resveratrol in the ethanol first. Unfortunately there are no prep instructions so my question to you guys is, would you add the ethanol part last?
    I don’t quite have all the ingredients so any comments on my suggested substitutes are very very welcome:

    Test formulation for
    resveratrol based on formula SC-DE-11-175-3 (COSMOS face cream, BASF)

    I.

    Glyceryl Stearate SE 5.5%

    Stearic Acid 1.5%

    Cetearyl Alcohol 3%

    Cegesoft® VP – try Kpangnan butter
    1%

    Cetiol® RLF – try Schercemol 185 8%

    Cegesoft® PS 6 Vegetable Oil – try
    jojoba oil
    6%

    Myritol® 312 Caprylic/Capric
    Triglyceride – try Myritol 318 6%

    Covi-Ox® T 90 EU C Tocopherol 0.50

    Argan Oil - use Mamey oil instead (relative of Argan) 1%

    Xanthan Gum 0.2%

     

    II.

    Glycerin 8%

    Water 42.1%

     

    III. 

    Ethanol Alcohol 15%

    trans-resveratrol 2%

    Fragrance 0.2%

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