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Request for review of Amino acid based Facial Cleansing Gel Formula
Hi Everyone!
I hope you’re all doing well! I’m an independent skincare founder currently developing a gentle, fragrance-free gel facial cleanser suitable for all skin types. I’ve been formulating on my own and would really appreciate some expert guidance to ensure I’m on the right track.
Here’s a brief overview of the formula:
Target:
- Mild, effective cleanser with 8–9% total ASM
- Amino acid–based surfactant system
- Fragrance-free, non-stripping, suitable for sensitive skin
Ingredients (in development):
- Water
- Sodium phytate
- Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
- Glycerin
- Hydroxyethylcellulose
- Disodium & Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate (25% active surfactant liquid)
- Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate (30% active surfactant liquid)
- Gluconolactone
- Ceramide NP (water-soluble)
- Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer
- Niacinamide (B3)
- Preservative: Caprylyl glycol, caprylhydroxamic acid, glycerin
- Citric acid (pH adjusted to 5.5)
The batches I’ve created so far appear visually stable (stored sealed at room temperature), and the gel texture and pH seem good. However, I’m concerned about the natural scent — the Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate seems to be adding a slightly unpleasant odor, which is noticeable in a fragrance-free product. I also want to confirm that my formula and surfactant system are appropriate for commercial use, from both a safety and performance standpoint.
Would any chemist be open to reviewing this formula, offering some suggestions for optimization (especially regarding odor, balance, or improvements), and potentially helping me move forward with professional testing (e.g., stability, PET, etc.)?
Looking forward to your thoughts, and I really appreciate your time and expertise.
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15 Replies
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I use hydrolyzed oat for scent. Not only is it softening and great for problem skin, it smells nice.
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However, I’ve run into a significant issue: the natural odor of the formulation — specifically a slightly unpleasant scent from the Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate — is noticeable now that it’s fragrance-free.
Here’s the complication:
I’ve already ordered my packaging with labels screen printed directly on the bottles, and I’ve also published a detailed breakdown of the INCI list on my blog, so I’m locked into this exact formula from a communication and compliance standpoint. That means I can’t add any new ingredients to help mask or adjust the scent.Given this constraint, I’m unsure how to proceed. Is there any way to reduce or neutralize the odor using formulation techniques that don’t require declaring additional ingredients? Or could minor adjustments to the surfactant ratios or process help soften the smell without compromising the formula’s performance?
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This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by gabrielm05.
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How would you describe the smell? When I make/use fragrance free products I expect that they will smell like their raw materials, which might not be very pleasant. I thought consumers accepted that possibility when choosing the fragrance free option.
Have you tried requesting samples from other suppliers?
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Thank you for your feedback. I have switched to other suppliers, and some of the new samples have a slightly better smell than the ones we had before. However, the smell is still somewhat present, and it’s hard to describe. From my analysis, it seems to be coming from the Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate, likely due to the fatty acids in it. It has a bit of a funky scent, which I’ve noticed is common with this ingredient. I understand that consumers opting for fragrance-free products typically expect the raw material smells, but I was hoping to refine it further to improve the overall experience.
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Have you asked other people how they feel about the smell? Not just asking if they notice it, but whether or not it’s a deal breaker for them. I’ve noticed that when I spend a long time on a product I can end up being overly critical of it after a while.
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You’re absolutely right, I actually haven’t asked others directly how they feel about the smell, just whether they notice it. I’ve been so focused on trying to perfect everything that I’ve probably become overly critical of it myself. I really appreciate the reminder, I’ll start asking around to get some honest opinions and hopefully that helps ease some of the overwhelm. Thanks again! ????
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I’m glad I could be of some help. Good luck with your stinky product!
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This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by
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Preservative system is pretty weak - esp. versus Gram negative bacteria. Risky as facial wash will bring exposure to tap water. Can you describe your packaging and QA/QC capability?
Why Gluconolactone? If for chelation, advise EDTA.
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Thank you for the feedback, I really appreciate your insight on preservation and microbiological safety.
To clarify, the formula uses Spectrastat (1%) from Inolex as the core preservation system. It’s a broad-spectrum, preservative-free blend based on caprylhydroxamic acid, and has shown effectiveness even against Gram-negative bacteria when properly formulated. That said, I fully understand the concerns about rinse-off exposure to tap water, and it’s something we’re monitoring closely as we move toward formal testing.
The product is packaged in glass pump bottles, chosen specifically for their airtight design, chemical stability, and reduced contamination risk from repeated handling. The pumps have non-metallic, lockable closures to further minimize backflow and microbial ingress.
Regarding Gluconolactone, it was selected not only for its chelating function but also for its skin benefits, including gentle exfoliation, hydration, antioxidant activity, and barrier support. We opted not to use EDTA in this version due to our focus on sensitive skin compatibility, but I’m definitely open to revisiting it based on PET results or user feedback.
As for QA/QC capability, I’m still early-stage and currently working as an independent founder. I haven’t completed microbiological challenge testing or stability studies yet, but I’m actively looking to partner with a lab or chemist who can help perform those next steps and build out appropriate QA/QC processes for production.
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Thanks. Good for the packaging - what about your production? Do you test your raws or work off CoA’s? How good is your water.
Please do not accept preservative marketers’ BS as valid - “broad-spectrum, preservative-free blend based on caprylhydroxamic acid, ” is both grossly incorrect and unethical. Cap glycol./cap hydroxamate combination offers a major gap re Gram negative bacteria and you are including these for the sole purpose of preservation.
Gluconolactone is unstable and will break down in an aq. product. Your customer will experience its breakdown product gluconic acid, not gluconolactone.
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Thanks again for your detailed input, I really appreciate the insight.
We’re currently exploring a few preservative options, including or using both:
- Sharomix 705 (INCI: Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenylpropanol)
- Leucidal Complete (INCI: Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract)We’re also evaluating Euxyl K 712 and NeoDefend as potential candidates. Both seem promising in terms of mildness and broad-spectrum activity. I’d be curious to hear your thoughts on either of those, particularly regarding real-world efficacy and any concerns with stability or user safety.
Regarding Gluconolactone, we noted your concern about its instability in aqueous formulations. We’re considering replacing it with Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate (Na-GLDA) as a chelating agent. Do you see any issues with that substitution or any better alternatives you’d recommend?
As for production, we currently rely on Certificates of Analysis (CoAs) from suppliers but plan to introduce independent raw material testing as we scale. Our batches are made with RO-purified water, and we’re actively minimizing the use of known irritants, fragrance, and alcohol to make the formula as suitable as possible for sensitive skin types.
Would love to hear any feedback you have based on this direction. Thanks again for your guidance it’s always appreciated.
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I’ll clarify - cap glycol is ok , even for Gram neg’s, but at higher levels than folks use. Could you add some phenoxyethanol?
With your packaging, you could live with your current system if you could ensure vs risk of Gram neg contamination in making. CoA’s delegate part of that responsibility to suppliers and I’m not sure you can be confident with water. Not knowing your hardware, cleaning and sanitization practices, process (any heat?) maybe some insurance.
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Thank you for your helpful insights. After careful consideration, we’ve decided to proceed with Spectrastat along with Phenylpropanol and Ethylhexylglycerin as preservatives in our formulation.
Could you point me to any manufacturing procedures or best practices regarding the heating process you mentioned earlier? We’d like to ensure we’re using the most effective method, especially when it comes to managing potential risks associated with contamination.
Additionally, we’ve been wondering whether it’s better to use distilled water or deionized water for our formulation. Could you provide any guidance on which one would be more suitable for this type of product?
Here’s our current procedure:
Phase A: Water
Sodium Phytate
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Glycerin HydroxyethylcellulosePhase B:
Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate
Disodium & Sodium Cocoyl GlutamatePhase C:
Gluconolactone
Ceramide NP
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Niacinamide
Phenylpropanol, EHG
SpectrastatPhase D:
Citric AcidProcedure:
Phase A: Let Hydroxyethylcellulose hydrate for several hours.
Add Phase C (actives) into Phase A, mixing until fully homogenized.
Add Phase B (surfactants) and let it sit for about 30 minutes to ensure proper consistency.
Add preservatives.
Add Phase D (Citric Acid).Do you think any changes should be made to our procedure, or does it look good to proceed with?
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What are batch volumes and making periods?
Water. Do you make or is it supplied?
A and B are unpreserved. Keep those times brief - in any case < 4 hours. Aloe is often a problem - what info re. CoA and is it preserved?
Do you sanitize equipment before use and how?
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Thank you for your detailed questions.
Please see my responses below:
Batch Volumes:
We are currently doing sample runs of 50 g as part of our in-house R&D. Making Periods: Each batch is completed within 4 hours maximum.Water Supply: We do not produce our own water; we use distilled water purchased from retail sources.
Aloe Vera Extract: We’re currently using this Aloe Vera Extract (water-soluble) from Wholesale Supplies Plus.Please let us know if you recommend a more robust or better-preserved alternative — we’re open to suggestions at this stage of testing.
We’re still in the testing phase and producing in-house, so sanitation and controls are being fine-tuned. Let me know if you’d like more detail on any step. Thanks again,
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