Pomade become soap on breakdown

Hair

Pomade become soap on breakdown

Posted by ammez on July 23, 2018 at 5:59 pm

Hi all,

I’ve develop gel type hair pomade
for personal use, and I’m happy with everything about my pomade, nice texture
and nice hold and clarity is perfect, but after rubbing in the hands and
breakdown for a few seconds the gel has becomes soap.

I tried to reduce Ceteareth-25 from
22% to 17-15% but It does not help. This problem occurs every batch. How to fix
it ?

Thank you so much.

My equipment -> Overhead
stirrer mixer and Dissolver/Disperse

Ingredient list ->
Sterile Water -> 60%


Ceteareth-25 -> 17%


PVP K90 -> 2.5%


GLYCERIN


PROPYLENE GLYCOL


PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate


PEG-40


TWEEN 20


PEG-8 Bees Wax -> 0.5%


FRAGRANCE


PRESERVATIVE

Before

After

Fekher replied 6 years, 2 months ago 6 Members · 11 Replies
11 Replies

Sibech

Member
July 23, 2018 at 7:30 pm

Try taking a look at this discussion:

https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/1807/water-soluble-pomade

It was a pretty similar issue and might be enough to help you?
ammez

Member
July 24, 2018 at 1:38 am

Sibech Thank you for your recommend for
previous discussion
topic,
they focus on how to increase hold factor and
make crystal
clear product in the
same time but big issue with
me right now is pomade become soap after breakdown a few minute on my hand
.
I
am waiting for your answer and appreciate all your comments.
Dirtnap1

Member
July 24, 2018 at 8:56 pm

Try ceteareth-20
could possibly be the levels of glyceryl cocoate, but we would need percentages of your formula to help.
ammez

Member
July 25, 2018 at 3:01 am

Hi Dirtnap1 Thank you for your comment.
I used glyceryl cocoate just 5%, PEG-40 2%, Tween 20 2%. PG+VG 5%.

I’ll try to use Cetearate-20, but how many
percentage of Cetearate-20 if I interchange with Cetearate-25 @ 17% I think the solidification
point of these ingredients are not same.

Thank you in advance.
Chemist77

Member
July 25, 2018 at 3:39 am

You better get rid of those foaming liquid surfactants or reduce them drastically. Make a batch with just the fatty alcohol ethoxylate, glycerin, propylene glycol, PVP & preservative. Once you get the base right, think of adding the fragrance and other additives. I have used 25-30% ceteareth-20 and it has been wonderful without issues. Ceteareth-25 generates more aeration and foaming, I couldn’t handle it with my lab equipment. Gave up on it. Ceteareth-20 is my star now for this pomade formulation.
ammez

Member
July 26, 2018 at 1:56 am

@Chemist77 ฺBig thanks for your suggestion.
The alcohol ethoxylate It’s rare to find in my country.
Can I use Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters(water soluble) instead of alcohol ethoxylate ?
I’m not sure it’s generates more aeration and foaming like a glyceryl cocoate or not.
Chemist77

Member
July 26, 2018 at 4:51 am

I meant Ceteareth-20 can be brought in for the 25 mole ethoxyate. Have no experience of doing such a product with Jojoba ethoxylates.
Dirtnap1

Member
August 28, 2018 at 12:07 am

Question for anyone making pomade. I have made quite a few, and seems if I add any humectant such as glycerin it drastically effects the hold from any fixative.

What is the true purpose for the humectant in this type of product? I have had success without it, but was curious.
belassi

Member
August 28, 2018 at 12:23 am

Someone should start “Pomade Corner”
Dirtnap1

Member
August 28, 2018 at 3:57 pm

We should have a sub forum as there are many questions regarding them.
Fekher

Member
September 12, 2018 at 2:31 pm

@Chemist77 your suggestion about ceteareth 20 is soo smart thanks for that.
@ammez i approve @Chemist77 just try it with only ceteareth 25 , pvp , water , preservative , perfume you will almost solve or reduce your problem.
@Dirtnap1 for glycerin , mpg they give more shining for hair .