Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate won’t thicken my cleanser

  • PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate won’t thicken my cleanser

    Posted by DeedeeUkulele on September 6, 2022 at 10:26 am

    I’m trying to roughly dupe a popular gel cleanser (Krave Beauty Matcha Hemp Cleanser), which seems to be mostly water, humectants, and some surfactants.

    Formula 1:
    66.5% water
    3% glycerin
    0.20% tetrasodium glutamate diacetate
    0.1% allantoin
    0.2% panthenol
    2% Sodium lactate (and) sodium gluconate
    15% Sodium lauroamphoacetate 
    5% lamesoft PO 65
    4% coco glucoside
    3% Peg-120 methyl glucose dioleate
    0.5% Sodium copper chlorophyllin
    0.5% germall plus liquid

    Viscosity: Juuuuust a tad thicker than pancake syrup. It didn’t give my skin that “moist” feeling after rinsing off, so I figured I had to up the humectants just like the cleanser I was trying to dupe. 

    Formula 2:
    A
    13% Glycerin
    7% Dipropylene glycol
    3% Sodium lauroamphoacetate
    3% lamesoft PO 65
    2% Sodium PCA (and) glucose (and) lactic acid (and) sodium lactate
    0.02% Panthenol
    3% Peg-120 methyl glucose dioleate

    B
    68.03% water
    0.20% tetrasodium glutamate diacetate
    0.25% Sodium copper chlorophyllin
    0.5% germall plus liquid

    Viscosity: Nada. Basically slippery water. Aside from that, the solution turned cloudy once I added Phase B. 

    For my third try, I upped both surfactant and humectants: 15% Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, 13% glycerin, 7% Dipropylene glycol, and 3% Peg-120 methyl glucose dioleate. I figured out the correct order of addition so the solution was crystal clear but the viscosity is similar to vegetable oil. 

    1. Is the thickening properties of PEG-120 methyl glucose diacetate dependent on the amount of surfactants?
    2. Is the amount of humectants interfering with the PEG-120 methyl glucose diacetate?
    3. Is there any way for me to thicken Formula 2 and keep the pH at 5.5?

    DeedeeUkulele replied 2 years, 3 months ago 3 Members · 6 Replies
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