Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating % of surfactants in shampoo

  • % of surfactants in shampoo

    Posted by komirra on November 11, 2017 at 2:54 pm

    What is the typical concetration of surfactants in a basic shampoo? I have heard suggestions of 15-40%, which is a huge range. I have made shampoos with a concetration of 40% surfactants. but I think that may be too much. Am I using way to much surfactants in my shampoos? is 20-30% a better target? 

    Usually I use coco betaine, SCI powder, and Decyl glucoside, sodium lauroyl lactylate

    But not I want to make a moisturizing SLES shampoo/bodywash with SLES, coco betaine, SCI powder, and glycol diserate. But think that 40% concentration of these surfactants is going to be drying. 

    belassi replied 6 years, 10 months ago 7 Members · 20 Replies
  • 20 Replies
  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    November 11, 2017 at 4:47 pm

    It depends on how you combine the actives (wt/wt%) of each but 15-20% should be sufficient:P&G used to market Prell Concentrate in a tube which had >30% active SAA (they still may, but haven’t looked recently).Main concern with high SAA is ocular irritation.

  • komirra

    Member
    November 11, 2017 at 11:08 pm

    ok so would SLES 10% (60% concentration) coco betaine 5% and SCI powder 5% be a good amount of surfactant for a shampoo? The rest being water, cat guar, gycol diserate and thickener.

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    November 12, 2017 at 12:20 am

    Should be,so make it and test by whatever means you use.

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    November 12, 2017 at 12:24 am

    Don’t forget a preservative:suggest Germaben 11at 1% wt/wt.

  • komirra

    Member
    November 12, 2017 at 3:22 am

    of course always preservative! I typically use liquid germall plus. probably also need soem citric acid for cat guar. thanks for help and suggestions!

  • em88

    Member
    November 13, 2017 at 7:50 am

    That would be enough, but you should check how much foam does the shampoo generate. 

  • OldPerry

    Member
    November 13, 2017 at 2:51 pm

    40% is definitely too high.  Your suggested formulas seems reasonable.

  • komirra

    Member
    November 13, 2017 at 5:12 pm

    Thanks! I really appreciate the feed back! I made a shampoo that was irritating my scalp a bit. but when I diluted it i didn’t have the problem. I think the concentration of cleansers was the big problem.

  • komirra

    Member
    November 14, 2017 at 8:18 pm

    So this is my projected formula. please advise. any suggestion or does this look like a goos starting place?

    SCI powder 5%
    Coco betain 5%
    SLES 10%
    Cat guar .5%
    citric acid- until pH is 4-5

    Sodium Laureth Sulfate (and) Glycol Distearate (and) Cocamide MEA (and) Laureth-10 1% (premixed)

    Crothix- until desired thickness achieved

    Peg 12 dimethicone- 2%
    liquid germall plus .5%
    water q.s

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    November 14, 2017 at 8:55 pm

    AT pH 5 Better to use ammonium LES for long term stability:otherwise looks ok.

  • komirra

    Member
    November 14, 2017 at 10:44 pm

    @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ  thanks! are you saying that I should aim to take the pH down to 4 instead of 5? or should I try to keep it at like 6?

    I only have SLES so I cant make the swap to ALES

  • belassi

    Member
    November 14, 2017 at 11:19 pm

    I only have SLES so I cant make the swap to ALES
    That is unfortunate. SLES is a really crummy surfactant IMO. I base my own shampoos on ALS/ALES/CAPB and try as I may, I cannot get near the performance using SLS/SLES/CAPB, mass for mass.

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    November 15, 2017 at 12:09 am

    If you only have SLES adjustPh to 6 to6.5.

  • komirra

    Member
    November 15, 2017 at 2:59 am

    gotcha!

  • sven

    Member
    November 15, 2017 at 5:11 am

    @belassi i like that combination but nearly impossible to find as a ready mix locally. am busy trying to see how i can make up some 

  • David

    Member
    November 15, 2017 at 2:38 pm

    @Belassi -I thought ALS/SLS or SLES/ALES had very similar perfomance? Is this noted performance difference also true when calculated in moles active matter? ALS/ALES is not very popular in Europe  - don’t know why.

  • belassi

    Member
    November 15, 2017 at 3:03 pm

    David: I haven’t tried to calculate it in terms of active matter. There is not much of a price difference for me in terms of raw materials. 20% of the blend (ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, lauryl glucoside and DEAL) + 5% CAPB = 25% whereas I cannot achieve anything like the same level of performance using sodium salts at those levels.

  • sven

    Member
    November 15, 2017 at 3:05 pm

    Belassi do you have a spec sheet of that combo? 

  • belassi

    Member
    November 15, 2017 at 3:16 pm

    UL Prospector
    or
    Care Chemicals
    It’s very versatile. They say on the data sheet that it can be mixed at any temperature, but I usually work at about 50C because when cold, it is so viscous as to take forever to mix. Very high solids content, up to 70%. 

  • belassi

    Member
    November 15, 2017 at 3:23 pm

    If you can’t find it there is an alternate blend by TEXAPON: KD SO3 which is ammonium based. I haven’t tried it myself.
    I was able to simplify our production of shampoos, body wash and liquid hand soap by adopting a single blend with various additions as appropriate.

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