Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Lactic acid in deodorant… Need help to understand

  • Lactic acid in deodorant… Need help to understand

    Posted by Mira on June 25, 2020 at 5:35 pm
    hello, if you please would help me about this. 
    I formulated deodorant as following:

    Cetostearyl alcohol 5 %
    Viscolam AT 100p     2% emulsifier 
     (inci;

    Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Trideceth-10) 
    Carrageenan 0.2 %
    Oils 6%
    Sorbitol 2%
    Edta 0.1
    Zinc oxide 5%
    Zinc ricinoleate 3%
    Kaolin 5%
    Corn starch 2%
    Licorice  extract 5%
    Aloe vera extract 1%
    Vit.E 0.5 %
    Preservative 0. 5%
    Fragrance 1%
    Water up to 100

    The consistency of the cream is good and it’s spreading over skin. 
    But, I found the ph about 9. I used lactic acid to lower it. 
    I added 3% lactic acid, ph now 7.1
    I still need to lower it to 5.5 but idk if high percent of lactic acid would be irritant for the underarm ? Do i need to add sodium lactate with it? 
    And is the kaolin & zinc oxide causing that high ph?

    belassi replied 4 years, 2 months ago 3 Members · 16 Replies
  • 16 Replies
  • belassi

    Member
    June 25, 2020 at 7:16 pm

    Licorice  extract 5% - that is a huge amount. What kind of extract is that?

  • Mira

    Member
    June 25, 2020 at 7:30 pm

    @Belassi 
    It is a water based extract  

  • Bill_Toge

    Member
    June 25, 2020 at 9:57 pm

    the zinc oxide is reacting with the acid, which is why you’re needing to use a lot of it - I’d suggest removing the zinc oxide

  • Mira

    Member
    June 25, 2020 at 10:11 pm

    @Bill_Toge 
    Zinc oxide is active ingredient for its antimicrobial effect and reducing odor. 
    If i use citric acid to lower ph, is it still react with zinc oxide? 

  • Bill_Toge

    Member
    June 25, 2020 at 10:27 pm

    Amira said:

    @Bill_Toge 
    Zinc oxide is active ingredient for its antimicrobial effect and reducing odor. 
    If i use citric acid to lower ph, is it still react with zinc oxide? 

    zinc ricinoleate (already in the formula) will do that job a lot better
    with zinc oxide, the same thing will happen with any acid
  • Mira

    Member
    June 25, 2020 at 10:42 pm

    @Bill_Toge 
    Thank you. I will try the formula without zinc oxide. That’s supposed to lower ph. 

  • Mira

    Member
    June 26, 2020 at 9:15 am

    Belassi said:

    Licorice  extract 5% - that is a huge amount. What kind of extract is that?

    It is 70 % water extract as I  told by the supplier 

  • belassi

    Member
    June 26, 2020 at 3:34 pm

    The thing is, licorice is not very soluble. The pure acid is about 0.2% soluble. I buy a powdered root extract, direct from China. It is a yellow-brown powder with 12% of the licorice acid active ingredient and reasonably soluble because it also contains saponins. Frankly, any liquid licorice extract you buy is likely to contain a risible amount. I use 0.2% of the 12% powder in shampoo, and it is plenty.

  • Mira

    Member
    June 26, 2020 at 4:08 pm

    @Belassi 
    Now, i am willing to remove zinc oxide, lower licorice extract may be to 2%. 
    But as a thought, if i used niacinamide (for underarm  depigmentation along with the licorice extract) and i used  lactic acid to adjust ph to 5.5
    Would it be right? 

  • belassi

    Member
    June 26, 2020 at 4:41 pm

    You won’t see any skin lightening effect with that kind of licorice extract, at least I don’t think so.

  • Mira

    Member
    June 26, 2020 at 8:48 pm

    Belassi said:

    You won’t see any skin lightening effect with that kind of licorice extract, at least I don’t think so.

    Would you please expalin to me why? 

  • belassi

    Member
    June 26, 2020 at 9:43 pm

    Because we have already tried it, with far higher (twenty-fold) concentrations than what you are using. And it didn’t work.

  • Mira

    Member
    June 26, 2020 at 10:47 pm

    @Belassi 
    Ok, thank you for this. 
    But, what would you recommend for lightening effect (no for vit c, kojic for oxidation & high ph problems) 

  • belassi

    Member
    June 26, 2020 at 11:43 pm

    We had good results using organic shea butter in a hand cream (noticeable after about three weeks use) presumably due to the vitamin A precursors. But that is no good for your application. You could try potassium glycyrrhizate (the soluble salt of the pure acid) - I make that sometimes by reacting the pure acid (from China of course) with potassium hydroxide. But, it is a salt and can be destabilised by various things including certain preservatives (eg dehydroacetic acid). 
    I agree about vitamin C, even the very expensive palmitate, Aprecier, oxidised in an airless container despite my best efforts and endless reading of patents.

  • Mira

    Member
    June 27, 2020 at 12:10 am

    @Belassi 
    Unfortunately, Potassium glycyrrhizate is not available here nor the acid. I would leave the idea of lightening effect for now. 
    Thank you so much for your input and the information. 

  • belassi

    Member
    June 27, 2020 at 12:35 am

    I know, it’s hard to get hold of. I bought mine from China via mail order. Everyone here in the post service seems to think it’s just fine for people to be ordering kilograms of white powder from China!

Log in to reply.

Chemists Corner