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Increasing moisturiser penetration/absorption
Hi all, I’m trying a basic moisturiser comprised of: water, emulsifying wax, propanediol and oils (borage and sweet almond) which is fine but I do seem to get a soaping effect.
I’ve been looking to get the same absorption as a cheap commercial moisturiser which seems to sink straight into the skin. The ingredients are: Aqua, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Cocoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Distarch Phosphate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Hamamelis Virginiana Bark/Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dimethicone, Carbomer, Maltodextrin, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Trisodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Piroctone Olamine.
Based on a few other threads here it seems like its the dimethicone and maybe Cetearyl Alcohol which are helping the absorption. Is this correct or is it something else?
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4 Replies
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I’d say “absorption” is an illusion since it can be achieved by lowering ingredients that provides a cushioning effect, increasing the water content, less tacky humectants.
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D5 or low viscous dimethicones (1cs, 2cs, 5cs) will eliminate the soaping effect. You can try starches in order to get that silky, cushiony feel.
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Thanks, appreciate the feedback
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Try dropping your emulsifier slightly, as adding more than you need means the remainder will form foam. If the product is then not stable, try adding another emulsifier to broaden the HLB.
Also, as mentioned above, low viscosity dimethicones will reduce soaping since they act as antifoams.
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