Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating How to make an oil based concealer paste less oily and harder?

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  • How to make an oil based concealer paste less oily and harder?

    Posted by Zink on November 6, 2019 at 10:00 pm

    Working on a high coverage blemish concealer, in order of %

    Titanium Dioxide, Microcrystalline Wax, Squalane, Isododecane, Candelilla Wax, Octyldodecanol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Safflower Oil, Jojoba Oil, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Bisabolol, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Tocopherol + pigments.

    My goals are to
    1. Make it a bit less creamy, a bit more like a wax/pressed powder.
    2. Make it a bit less oily/drier feeling
    3. Make it help reduce redness of blemishes better if possible

    I could
    1. Replace some oils with IPM or more isododecane?
    2. Add more Candelilla wax to make it harder? Or?
    3. Could adding say 10% alcohol work in such a formula to make it help reduce the redness of blemishes? 

    Zink replied 5 years ago 2 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 6, 2019 at 11:19 pm

    You can replace oils to the ones that provide dryer feel, for example increase isododecane and reduce squalane and other veg oils. Regarding hardness, you can try polyethylene instead of microcrystalline wax. So you can replace all oils to isododecane and IPM and add higher melting point waxes.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 6, 2019 at 11:21 pm

    I make stick concealer for my own use and tried many options (oils and waxes) but unlike you my challenge is how to make it creamier :)

  • Zink

    Member
    November 14, 2019 at 9:27 pm

    Thanks! Seems like rice bran wax could be an alternative to microcrystalline wax also.

    Here’s some info https://formulabotanica.com/natural-cosmetic-waxes/

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