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How to make a cleanser with Decyl Glucoside better at removing makeup?
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I recall that we used a component that did pre-mix the solutions, but it was with rather low viscosities. I remember the product because the packaging was easy to get, but the filling was a pain. It had to be addressed in the QA/QC SOP’s as well as the filling records. Essentially it was two separate fill stations.
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What about foam? Obviously water is easy, but all silicones for this purpose would be foam-reducing, right? (I just saw a foaming makeup primer today but I wasn’t able to look at the ingredients. If it’s like 99% of primers, it contains a great deal of silicones.)
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It’s appied using cotton pad. You don’t need it to foam.
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ngarayeva001 said:@smok, it’s a cleansing balm:
INCI % Mineral oil 62.25% Cetearyl alcohol and PEG-20 Stearate 10.00% PEG-40 HCO 12.00% Stearic acid 10.00% Cetyl Alcohol 5.00% Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin 0.75% You don’t need Cyclomethicone for it. It’s a solid cleansing product that should be melted in hands applied on face and rinsed off.
Duophased makeup removers with Cyclomethicone usually look like this:
INCI % Aqua 44.35% Tetrasodium EDTA 0.20% Butylene Glycol 3.00% Sodium Chloride 1.25% Germaben 1.0% C12-15 alkyl benzoate 2.00% Cyclomethicone 48.00% Bisabolol 0.20%
This is a liquid product that should be shaken and then applied using a cotton pad. You don’t need to rinse it off.Both of the products use oil to dissolve makeup. Cyclomethicone can be considered oil for the sake of this discussion.
hello dear i did not find Cetyl Alcohol what is the substitute -
Cetearyl alcohol or add more stearic acid. Polyethylene is an option as well, but make sure it’s a low melting point one.
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Why not try micellar water? And also you are forgetting, that it is supposed to be a formula for acneic skin, maybe better no oils?
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@ngarayeva001 could you tell me please, how solid it is, is it a bar-solid?
Also can mineral oil be substituted for some ester?INCI % Mineral oil 62.25% Cetearyl alcohol and PEG-20 Stearate 10.00% PEG-40 HCO 12.00% Stearic acid 10.00% Cetyl Alcohol 5.00% Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin 0.75% You don’t need Cyclomethicone for it. It’s a solid cleansing product that should be melted in hands applied on face and rinsed off.
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@kot - micellar water (which is just diluted surfactant) would not be a particularly effective option.
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There is no scientifically backed data that suggests that oil cleansers make acne issue worse.
Regarding the texture it’s not bar solid. You can make it bar solid if replace stearic acid and cetyl alcohol to polyethylene. And yes you can easily replace mineral oil to a lighter ester. I often blend mineral oil with IPM.
I have 5 versions of this product but I find this particular formula is the best. -
Here is another one:
INCI % Mineral oil 31% C12-15 Alkil
Benzoate36% Peg-20
Glyceryl Triisostearate10% PEG-40 HCO 10% Polyethylene 10% Butylene
Glycol1% Glycerin 1% Preservative 1% More or less ok, but hard to wash it off. I am still working on it. I tried Peg-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate at 20% without PEG-40 HCO, but it doesn’t dissolve makeup as well as the version above.
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@ngarayeva001 Thanks, try poly-80 at 10-15 % …maybe
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@Perry, hello teacher, hope you’re fine! There are micellar water formulations with kind of dissolvers .
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The majority of micellar water products in the market are made of either poloxamer 185 or PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides. Neither of those is efficient for dissolving water resistant products.
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@kot - I’m not sure I understand what you mean by “dissolvers”. Do you have an ingredient list of a micellar water that you can share? My review of micellar water ingredient lists & the way they are marketed leads me to view these as simply watered down regular cleansers or formulated with surfactants that are not particularly effective at cleansing.
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The ordinary launched a new cleanser which they claim removes makeup well and is gentle, squalane based pH 5.5. Perhaps something like this could be improved upon to offer more benefit to acneic skin. Let me know if you have any thoughts as to pros and cons with this strategy, apart from the cost.
“When rubbed between your palms for approximately 10-30 seconds, the product undergoes an important textural change from a balm-like consistency to a clear oil-like consistency. This allows the emulsifying sucrose esters in the formula to trap and blend the dissolved makeup and facial impurities with water for rinsing. Being non-comedogenic and soap-free, this formula is designed to be gentle enough for daily use, without over-drying the skin, making it suitable for all skin types.”
Squalane, Aqua (Water), Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glycerin, Sucrose Stearate, Ethyl Macadamiate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sucrose Laurate, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Sucrose Dilaurate, Sucrose Trilaurate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Isoceteth-20, Sodium Polyacrylate, Tocopherol, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Malic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin.
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