Formulating

Help on formula please (I have all details listed)

Posted by MayDay1988 on April 3, 2019 at 4:33 am

Hi all, I need a little help with cleansing formula below

1. I have 2 cleansing agents together 21%, will that be too much for sensitive skin facial cleanser? A chance of irritation on skin? If so, at around what % is about right?

2. After wash I can feel that my skin is a bit gooey not silky smooth (like there is a thin film cover my face) what cause it and how can I correct it?

3. Any other suggestion in term of safety? For example, too much of some ingredients.

4. Is Dipropylene Glycol safe to use on facial product? At what concentration % please?

Thank you so much for your time and input.

Water	18.00%
Butylene Glycol	6.00%

Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate 10.00%

Sodium Stearate 12.00%

Stearic Acid 10.00%

Glycerin 20.00%

Sodium Xylenesulfonate	4.00%
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate	11.00%
Fragrance + Extracts + Preservative	2.50%

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride	1.00%
Tween 20	5.50%

Total 100.00%

ngarayeva001 replied 6 years ago 2 Members · 4 Replies

4 Replies

ngarayeva001

Member
April 5, 2019 at 6:48 am

Face cleansers shouldn’t contain more than 10% of active matter. Read below:
http://makingskincare.com/surfactant-calculator/
You feel film because you have too much of stearic acid. You don’t need it at all.
Make sarcosinate primary surfactant and don’t add much SCI.
You dont need so much of polysorbate 20. I assume your formula isn’t clear anyway so there’s no need to solubilise oils. Go for 1:1 if you want to premix triglycerides.
You waste butylene glycol and glycerin. Keep them below 4% (together).
MayDay1988

Member
April 5, 2019 at 6:56 am

@ngarayeva001 thank you so much.

This formula is in bar form, so I used sodium stearic to form the bar but then PH is too high for facial, around 8-9 without stearic acid (my primary use of stearic acud here us to reduce PH) . If not using stearic acid, how do I reduce PH (lactic acid will make the bar soft.)

Thank you!
MayDay1988

Member
April 5, 2019 at 7:00 am

Also is there a reason to make sarcoainate primary instead of SCI? I thought SCI is more mild. Thank you.
ngarayeva001

Member
April 5, 2019 at 8:13 am

Oh it’s a bar.. Well in this case you have to redo it, because you have too many liquid components.
SCI is mild, but it’s a powder and sometimes causes issues in liquid products.