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Hand cream turned out grainy
Hi fellow chemists! I made a hand cream formula that feels nice when applied, but it doesn’t look right there are very tiny grains dispersed all over it, even tho i heated both the water and oil phases to 70 degrees before mixing them together with a manual mixer that is relatively fast.
The formula is as follows:
Water phase
Aqua 80.63%
Sodium lactate 2%
Xanthan gum 0.8%
Oil phase
Beeswax 2%
Jojoba oil 2%
Caprylic/capric triglyceride 4%
Shea butter 1%
GMS SE 1.15%
Cetearyl alcohol 1.1%
BHT 0.07%
Cool down phase
Phenoxyethanol + EHG 1%
Fragrance 0.25%
What may have went wrong?
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15 Replies
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It might be the case that your mixer doesn’t provide enough shear, that 70°C is not enough tempetrature and that it cools fast (fastern than required to allow for proper micelles formation), that the mixing time is too little, or that the amount of emulsifier you’re using is not enough.
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With no mention of pH, and the emulsifier needing a bit of an elevated pH to function….do we know enough information to even speculate? The dash of NaLactate is about all we have to run with.
As well as you mentioned…. they might be using kitchen equipment vs equipment that creates shear.
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I would suggest an emulsifier with higher HLB, around 8-11, although keeping some of the Glyceryl Stearate
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I used cetearyl alcohol which has a high hlb
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I think you are misunderstanding fatty alcohols. They have a HIGH HLB requirement to be emulsified but actually don’t have an HLB value. They are not emulsifiers. If anything, they most closely emulate a low HLB emulsifier, or best not to use the term emulsifier at all….but rather… structuring agent.
In the age of moronic Ai…. most of the Goofle returns you will get on this topic…are completely wrong.
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I am new to formulating. What credible sources of information do you suggest?
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As a jumping off point, this site offers an introductory FREE course that should at least get you pointed in the right direction.
Good luck.
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Omg how didn’t I notice. Thank you so much!
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If you can’t find it….here is the link (same course).
Learn Cosmetic Formulation – Learning cosmetic formulation through good science.
learncosmeticformulation.com
Learning cosmetic formulation through good science.
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Thank you so much I really appreciate it!
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The only emulsifier here is GMS SE, which has an HLB of 5 to 6. The required HLB of your oil phase is way higher. You need to include a higher HLB emulsifier. I always pair GMS non-SE with lotionpro 165 in combination with cetearyl&cetyl alcohols. And I use only hyaluronic acid as the water-phase rheology modifier. No gums, cellulose or microplastics to not interfere with the skin penetration. Works like a dream!
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Can I use ceteareth 20? And how can I thicken the formula without using gums or cellulose?
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Primarily, as others have said, you need an emulsifier. Beeswax isn’t an emulsifier.
Second, this is a problem with shea butter sometimes in lotions. Once you get your emulsifier, if you still have problems, try again with a different emollient.
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It may be the emulsifier. I don’t recognize the one you’re using. It may be you didn’t heat it hot enough or mix enough. Also, shea butter can be tricky sometimes. Make sure you’re using the right emulsifier and the right amount of it, heat (use a thermometer) to 70c/158F and if you still have problems, try leaving out the shea or use a different emollient. Don’t cool it super fast and stir occasionally while cooling. Like I said, shea can be temperamental. It likes to crystalize in lip balms and lotion bars-making them lumpy and bumpy and off-putting. Maybe the same thing is happening here. I’m not sure.
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Thank you so much for your comments. I am considering using ceteareth 20 alongside GMS SE
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