Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair conditioner

  • Hair conditioner

    Posted by vishsella62 on December 18, 2024 at 8:39 am

    Hi,

    I’m actually having stability problem with my hair conditioner. Product separating into 2 phases. Could you please help. Formulation is as follows:

    water 83.32%

    Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.95%

    Citric Acid 0.03%

    Quaternium 87 3.5%

    Glycerin 2%

    Cetyl Alcohol 2.2%

    Stearyl Alcohol 1.5%

    Isopropyl Palmitate 4.5%

    D-Panthenol 75W 0.5%

    Soium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate 1%

    Perfume 0.5%

    Thank You

    ketchito replied 1 month ago 5 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • Adamnfineman

    Member
    December 18, 2024 at 10:52 am

    Hi, it looks like you’re missing an emulsifier here. Your fatty alcohols can support an emulsion but they won’t cut it on their own. A pretty common one in conditioners is Glyceryl Stearate SE.

    • Fekher

      Member
      December 18, 2024 at 2:11 pm

      Gms se alone will not lead to stable emulsion.

      • Adamnfineman

        Member
        December 18, 2024 at 2:31 pm

        True, though it is a start.

    • vishsella62

      Member
      December 19, 2024 at 6:33 am

      Already tried with Glyceryl Stearate. No improvement.

  • Fedaro

    Member
    December 18, 2024 at 3:18 pm

    Cetyl and Stearyl Alcohol are great stabilizers, but they are not dedicated emulsifiers. For a conditioner, you will likely want to add a cationic emulsifier, such as Behentrimonium Chloride, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, and/or Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, at around 1-2% (active material).

    I would also recommend reducing your Isopropyl Palmitate to ~3% or less, as you want to avoid weighing the hair down. You should also consider adding a chelating agent, like Disodium EDTA, at around 0.1%, to better support your preservative system.

    • vishsella62

      Member
      December 19, 2024 at 6:38 am

      Thank you Fedaro for information. I’ve a Quaternized Guar Flour, (3-chloro-2 hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium
      chloride available. Can I use it as a stabilizer?

  • ketchito

    Member
    December 19, 2024 at 7:01 am

    Even though Quaternium-87 would do the job also as an emulsifier, the cationic amine is sterically hindered. Can you switch to Behentrimonium chloride or methosulfate? Also, don’t use more than 2-2.5%. Also, HEC doesn’t help stabilize much since it doesn’t have mich surface activity. Could you replace it by <b style=”font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: var(-bb-body-text-color);”>Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate?

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