Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Clean CAP

  • Hair Clean CAP

    Posted by Rufiano on September 18, 2024 at 1:13 am

    Halo, please i need a help. I am on my projcet to formulate a hair clean in shower cap.

    This is the temporary formula:

    Aquadest

    Na2EDTA

    Na Benzoat

    Phenoxyethanol

    CHG 20%

    D Panthenol

    CAPB

    Menthol

    Dimethicon & Amodimethicon

    Fragrance

    Is it a normal if the result solution is not clear? It likes milky liquid.

    I have some problems, these are:

    1. After +- 24 hours, why it appears like gel on my solutions? The gel is like d-panthenol (sticky)

    2. When i do stabtest at 40 C, Why my solutions from milky liquid become yellow clear solutions?

    3. When i applied the solutions in a shower cap and i do stabtest (40 C), why it becames yellow spots in the shower cap?

    Anyone please can help me? I need your help. Thank you

    ketchito replied 1 month, 4 weeks ago 4 Members · 11 Replies
  • 11 Replies
  • ketchito

    Member
    September 18, 2024 at 7:32 am

    The gel you see might be one of the silicones, especially if any of them is a gum (Panthenol is water soluble).

    The stability turns from milky (you might be using a silicone emulsion) to a clear and yellow solution, since heat increases flocculation, creaming and lately phase separation (you might also see an oily layer on top). The yellow color is usual in amodimethicones, I believe due to amine impurities.

    The sticky spots on the cap are again silicona that sepárate (one of them might be a gum).

    As a test, remove your silicones and do stability again. To fix that, either use a more water dispersible silicone (ethoxylated), a microemulsion or add emulsifiers to create an emulsion on your own.

    • Rufiano

      Member
      September 25, 2024 at 2:29 am

      Wow thank you sir, it helps me a lot…

      Yes my problem is caused by the silicone & i’ll try more trials

    • Rufiano

      Member
      October 9, 2024 at 10:30 pm

      I’ve take out belsil DADM 3050, so i didn’t have silicone on my formula.

      But, the solution remains yellowish, and the cap remains yellowish too. Is it oxidized?

  • ketchito

    Member
    October 10, 2024 at 5:37 am

    If you take out the fragrance and the yellowing is gone, then the fragrance is oxidizing. For that, I’d add Tinogard TL premixed with the fragrance (between 0.05-0.10%).

    • Aniela

      Member
      October 13, 2024 at 2:28 pm

      Hello @ketchito ,

      May I ask you a question, please? Maybe a silly one, but… you live, you learn😇

      If Tinogard TL “protects from UV-light induced decomposition reactions and thus prevents fading or discoloration of products that are exposed to light”, does that mean that it’s action can expand beyond the product containing it? Would it bring any protection for say hair, or it will be already spent in the product?

      Thank you.

  • ketchito

    Member
    October 17, 2024 at 10:24 am

    Hi! Sorry for the late reply. I believe it depends. If you want to reduce damage due to free radicals formation and you use Tinogard in a leave-on product, then that’s possible. I remember a paper from P&G where they showed how protection from oxidative stress using a tropical product could even improve anchoring of hair. Now, you need to use it in the right product, so the media where free radicals would form is the same, and they can interact. Now, if you mean UV damage (because of absorption and bond cleavage), then you might need more than what’s usually recommended by the manufacturer (which is 0.1%), and better pair it with a molecule whose main action if UV absorption).

    • Aniela

      Member
      October 18, 2024 at 3:37 pm

      Thank you.

    • Rufiano

      Member
      October 22, 2024 at 4:23 am

      I’ve tried to substitute Belsil DADM with more water dispersible silicone (PEG 12 Dimethicon 2%), but it doesnt give a conditioning effect on hair, the fact is my hair becomes tangled & dry.

      Can you please give me a suggestion, should I increase its concentration (PEG 12 Dimethicon) or add other conditioning ingredients?


      Actually, i wanna use Belsil DADM 3050 BUT I havent got the solution about the instability before (Gel appear on my solutions)


      Thank you

  • MiaPharma

    Member
    October 22, 2024 at 6:12 am

    Maybe you are using too much of the Belsil. Have you read the Datasheet?

    *Recommended use levels of BELSIL<sup style=”font-family: inherit; color: var(-bb-body-text-color);”>®</sup> DADM 3240 E in shampoo formulations: 0,8 % to 2,5 %

    *The emulsion should be formulated at temperatures below 35 °C

    *BELSIL<sup>®</sup> DADM 3240 E needs to be stirred well before use.

    Per my philosophy, you want Belsil, you do Belsil, you can find a way 😀

    • Rufiano

      Member
      October 23, 2024 at 11:47 pm

      It’s very limited literature about Belsil DADM 3050 & It’s my first project making leave in conditioner.

      It’s just about 2% of Belsil DADM 3050.

      I need enlightenment whether Belsil DADM 3050 needs a solubilizer or surfactant because the solution I make is like milk which leaves residue on the walls of the beaker.

      & FYI Belsil DADM 3050 is comprises:

      <b style=”font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: var(-bb-body-text-color);”>Amodimethicone (and) Dimethicone (and) Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil (and) Trideceth-3 (and) Trideceth-10 (and) PEG-100 Stearate

      Thank You

  • ketchito

    Member
    October 24, 2024 at 6:10 am

    In a water-based system, you don’t solubilize the silicone but rather stabilize it by making an emulsion. If you have residues, then either increase your emulsifier or change it….or use an emulsified silicone instead.

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