Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General Gotu kola percentage and benefits?

  • Gotu kola percentage and benefits?

    Posted by hectic000 on January 19, 2023 at 10:27 pm

    I’ve been seeing a lot of centella asiatica in my skincare products lately. What does it do and at what percentage is is actually effective? 

    hectic000 replied 1 year, 11 months ago 4 Members · 20 Replies
  • 20 Replies
  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    January 19, 2023 at 11:26 pm

    If it’s Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) Extract it’s a drop in or label ingredient and won’t do anything.  To have some effectiveness, you’ll need to use TECA that is comprised of the purified functional ingredients derived from Gotu Kola.  

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    January 20, 2023 at 12:09 am
  • Graillotion

    Member
    January 20, 2023 at 12:17 am

    Echo what Mark said…. At marketing levels…it will do nothing…..Well…let me take that back…at marketing levels…it will sell product.

    So follow the pack….couple drops….and go crazy with the marketing.  Just make sure you have some functional moisturizing aspects…that will make the customer think it is working. :)  (Oh…and never forget…good story-line, pretty packaging…and a nice scent.  Those are the fundamentals of making it work! )

    Purchased extracts (at the crafter level) are essentially required not to work…otherwise they risk falling into the drug category….if they actually do something.

  • hectic000

    Member
    January 20, 2023 at 2:33 am

    Thank you!! @MarkBroussard very informative. I will look for products that have plant extract isolates in them instead. 

  • hectic000

    Member
    January 20, 2023 at 2:39 am

    @Graillotion hahah that is exactly what I’m trying to avoid.

    @Graillotion @MarkBroussard Speaking of scent, is it better to use fragrance free cosmetics in general? I was reading  that you can develop allergies to fragrance in skincare after a while. I use a shea cream that smells heavenly and just can’t part with it yet :(  

  • Graillotion

    Member
    January 20, 2023 at 3:06 am

    Ummm…. fragrance is a matter of your beliefs.

    Many generations…have used fragranced products for their lifetime…and not developed allergies.  Sounds like you are listening to fear mongers!  Is it possible….of course.

    If you are selling….there is a small space to sell unscented products…and a VERY big space….to sell delightfully scented products.  Most consumers are not willing to admit it…but they buy what they buy….cus they like the scent.

    Here is a link….if you want to buy the almost pure TECA…in small amounts:

    Centella Asiatica Extract (TECA 95%) (myskinrecipes.com)

    (It is a reputable site out of Thailand.)

    I generally just buy a standarized extract powder…and make it myself.  It is many MANY times stronger than what you will buy from a crafter supplier.

  • hectic000

    Member
    January 20, 2023 at 3:29 am

    @Graillotion I love my scented products, but my sister has really sensitive skin so she uses fragrance free products like eucerin. I am definitely reading a lot right now about how to reduce inflammation in skincare so fragrance has been coming up a lot. I guess you”re right, there is a lot of fear mongering going on though. 

    Thank you for the link! Super helpful since I would love to eventually make a moisturizer with Centella in it but now I know that TECA is the way to go 

  • hectic000

    Member
    January 20, 2023 at 4:01 am

    @MarkBroussard the article about plant extracts vs isolates reminds me of bakuchiol like in Paula’s choice 0.3% Retinol + 2% Bakuchiol cream. Is it an oil, plant extract, or plant extract isolate? 

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    January 20, 2023 at 12:48 pm

    @hectic000

    Bakuchiol is a oily plant extract isolate from the Babchi plant, but I don’t think I have ever seen anyone advise if Bakuchiol is a pure extract or if it is a component of the oily extract from Babchi.  It may be similar to CBD, where the actual amount of CBD in an oil extract can range from 50% to 90%.  Since CBD is heavily regulated, the suppliers must document the actual amount of CBD in the extract.  Not so with Bakuchiol.  I suspect when you buy Bakuchiol it is not 100% pure.

  • hectic000

    Member
    January 20, 2023 at 5:54 pm

    wow, sounds like there’s no real way to know if bakuchiol is pure and worth using, even though it’s turning up everywhere lately. I Also checked out the ingredients in one of my creams that has centella asiatica, and I like the cream, but now I know it probably has little to do with the centella because its not TECA lol. Thanks for the info @MarkBroussard @Graillotion

  • Graillotion

    Member
    January 20, 2023 at 7:53 pm

    @hectic000 , be advised….the re-packers are often selling this:

    Bakuchi Oil, Cold Pressed | Lotioncrafter  (3-5% content of the good stuff.)

    Which is not the same as this:

    Sytenol® A, the only natural Bakuchiol? - Prospector Knowledge Center (ulprospector.com)  (Over 99% of the good stuff.)

    The beginners tend to miss that slight spelling difference…and the potency…is like day and night.  Even if you get the REAL stuff…you still have to use more than a few drops in formula…to expect a result.  This is again…a marketing item….designed to sell product…unless someone really spent the big $$$ and put in a fair amount of the good stuff.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    January 20, 2023 at 9:55 pm

    @Graillotion

    LOL! … Bakuchi Oil … what a scam.  I suspect that is nothing more that cold pressed Babchi Oil.

  • hectic000

    Member
    January 21, 2023 at 4:12 pm

    @MarkBroussard @Graillotion Bakuchi Oil vs Bukuchiol!!!? See I never realized that was a thing :( .

    Okay, now I am curious because and going through ALL of my own products now LOL, is this something to be worried about when it comes to acids as well like kojic acid and salicylic acid? There is this brand called Topicals and they have a cream that has kojic acid, tranexamic acid,  azelaic acid with a ton of other ingredients in it. I had azelaic acid prescription that helped me as a teen because I was dealing with acne and scars. Are there different grades and levels of purity when it comes to acids? I apologize for my terminology I’m super new to this.   

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    January 21, 2023 at 5:35 pm

    @hectic000

    No, you don’t have this issue with Kojic Acid or Salicylic Acid or Azelaic Acid.  Those are pure compounds.

  • Squinny

    Member
    January 22, 2023 at 6:01 am

    Ummm…. fragrance is a matter of your beliefs.

    Many generations…have used fragranced products for their lifetime…and not developed allergies.  Sounds like you are listening to fear mongers!  Is it possible….of course.

    If you are selling….there is a small space to sell unscented products…and a VERY big space….to sell delightfully scented products.  Most consumers are not willing to admit it…but they buy what they buy….cus they like the scent.

    Here is a link….if you want to buy the almost pure TECA…in small amounts:

    Centella Asiatica Extract (TECA 95%) (myskinrecipes.com)

    (It is a reputable site out of Thailand.)

    I generally just buy a standarized extract powder…and make it myself.  It is many MANY times stronger than what you will buy from a crafter supplier.

    Hi there - Can I ask with the stuff from myskinrecipes.com there are 2 products - One is the 95% TECA and the other is Madecassoside 90% = what is best to use in a face cream for instance and what %. Also it says with the TECA it is best solubilsed in their product called ULTRA Solve - is this necessary or do you dissolve in Water ok? Or would you just make your emulsion and then add in cooldown? Cheers

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    January 22, 2023 at 12:27 pm

    @squinny:

    TECA is a mixture of Asiaticoside, Asiatic acid and Madecassic acid.  I think that may be a better option than just the Madecassoside … or you could use both.  Try starting at 0.1% load.

  • Squinny

    Member
    January 22, 2023 at 11:26 pm

    @MarkBroussard - Thanks Mark for the great advice (as usual). I will look at buying some soon. So when I add the powder do I just add to Cooldown and mix thoroughly? Have a great day.

  • hectic000

    Member
    January 25, 2023 at 10:57 pm

    @Graillotion I forgot to follow up with a question I had about bakuchiol not bakuchi oil lol. You mentioned that in order for it to be effective in a formula they have to add the right amount of  
    Sytenol® A, the only natural Bakuchiol? - Prospector Knowledge Center (ulprospector.com) Do you know roughly what amount I should look for in a product? Paula’s choice has a 1% bakuchiol and 2 % retinol that’s pretty popular at the moment.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    January 25, 2023 at 11:01 pm

    hectic000 said:

    @Graillotion I forgot to follow up with a question I had about bakuchiol not bakuchi oil lol. You mentioned that in order for it to be effective in a formula they have to add the right amount of  
    Sytenol® A, the only natural Bakuchiol? - Prospector Knowledge Center (ulprospector.com) Do you know roughly what amount I should look for in a product? Paula’s choice has a 1% bakuchiol and 2 % retinol that’s pretty popular at the moment.

    Are you a member of ULProspector?

    If so…follow this link.

    Sytenol® A by Sytheon - Personal Care & Cosmetics (ulprospector.com)

    Keep in mind….this company probably paid for all the studies….and only posted those that reflected positively on their product, often in a skewed by design…format.  :D

  • hectic000

    Member
    January 27, 2023 at 12:39 am

    @Graillotion yes i saw it says Sytenol ® A is superior, because it’s an extremely well defined compound with over 99% purity. Being obtained via monomolecular extraction, means that only the Bakuchiol molecule is extracted, and any harmful by-products are left behind during the separation process. 

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