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Gommage
Hi all,
I searched for “gommage” in previous discussions to no avail. I’ve learned so much from all of you so I’m hoping somebody can help me out!
I was given a formula from a customer for a peeling gel. However, when I make it in the lab I cannot get it to pill up like their product does. We were told that the secret is in the tank-diameter ratio…but I’m only making a small 300g batch, not producing the large scale up batch yet. The formula consists of only 3% carbomer 940, 0.7% Euxyl PE 9010, NaOH solution to pH 5.5-6.5 and 40% propanediol, qs water to 100. There are a bunch of extracts and foo foo ingredients in at 0.0001%, which I haven’t been adding.
I’ve tried this with a dispersion blade and what seemed to be the 1-3 tank ratio with the beaker I was using, but the gel was too thick and therefore the extra space where the blade was not immediately touching was not mixing. When I made another batch and used my normal size beaker with the dispersion blade, it had a nice vortex and created a beautiful clear thick gel (like the product). When I completed the batch and tried a sample on my hand, it took forever for it to pill. The pH was the exact same as the product (5.9), which was my first thought. The instructions are to put the gel on the skin, let it sit for 45-60 seconds, and then start rubbing. It turns liquidy and then balls up. For some reason though, I had to rub for well over a minute to get my batch to ball up, and it was pretty minimal. A few of us tried it and even took it home to compare the two on our faces, and my batch just isn’t balling up fast enough.
Does anyone have any ideas on why my batch is different? Maybe the formula I was given isn’t correct? Could it be our water (we do not have RO water yet in the lab; we’re using purified water …does it need a chelator included in the formula?) I’m also using Protameen’s carbomer 940, is this much different than Rita’s carbomer 940 (in their formula)?
Thank you in advance, it is much appreciated!
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5 Replies
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3% Carbomer 940?
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Microformulation said:3% Carbomer 940?Yep, it’s a lot.
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40% propanediol?
1.
Rosa Damascena [Rose] Distillate, Glycerin*, Carica Papaya [Papaya*] Leaf Extract, Carica Papaya [Papaya*] Fruit Extract, Ananas Comosus [Pineapple*] Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate [Hyaluronic Acid], Glucomannan [Konjac Flour] Powder, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Bicarbonate [Baking Soda], Aqua [Water], Melia Azadirachta [Neem] Extract, Coccinia Indica [Ivy Gourd] Extract, Solanum Melongena [Eggplant] Extract, Aloe Barbadensis [Aloe] Extract, Ocimum Sanctum [Tulsi] Extract, Curcuma Longa [Turmeric] Extract, Corallina Officinalis [Seaweed] Extract *Organic Origin2.
Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract*, Aqua (water), Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cetearyl Alcohol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate,
Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides, Glyceryl Stearate, Crithmum Maritimum Extract*, Cetearyl Glucoside, Maris Aqua (Sea
Water), Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract*, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract*, Cytisus Scoparius Branch/Flower/Leaf Extract*, Polygonum
Fagopyrum Seed Extract*, Benzyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Parfum (Fragrance), Dehydroacetic Acid, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil,
Tocopherol, Linalool, Limonene, Benzyl Salicilate, Sodium Hydroxide -
Pattsi said:40% propanediol?
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Rosa Damascena [Rose] Distillate, Glycerin*, Carica Papaya [Papaya*] Leaf Extract, Carica Papaya [Papaya*] Fruit Extract, Ananas Comosus [Pineapple*] Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate [Hyaluronic Acid], Glucomannan [Konjac Flour] Powder, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Bicarbonate [Baking Soda], Aqua [Water], Melia Azadirachta [Neem] Extract, Coccinia Indica [Ivy Gourd] Extract, Solanum Melongena [Eggplant] Extract, Aloe Barbadensis [Aloe] Extract, Ocimum Sanctum [Tulsi] Extract, Curcuma Longa [Turmeric] Extract, Corallina Officinalis [Seaweed] Extract *Organic Origin2.
Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract*, Aqua (water), Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cetearyl Alcohol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate,
Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides, Glyceryl Stearate, Crithmum Maritimum Extract*, Cetearyl Glucoside, Maris Aqua (Sea
Water), Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract*, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract*, Cytisus Scoparius Branch/Flower/Leaf Extract*, Polygonum
Fagopyrum Seed Extract*, Benzyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Parfum (Fragrance), Dehydroacetic Acid, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil,
Tocopherol, Linalool, Limonene, Benzyl Salicilate, Sodium HydroxideYes, 40% propanediol. I have the formula from the client. Once you start rubbing the gel into your skin it feels like it turns into a liquid like propanediol.
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Carbomer 940 is much of a muchness between different manufacturers; I suspect that whether they know it or not, your customer is using a more electrolyte-tolerant grade of carbomer (electrolytes are what cause it to thin when it touches the skin)
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