Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General Getting a Hydrophilic Powder into an anhydrous system

  • Getting a Hydrophilic Powder into an anhydrous system

    Posted by Carrie on January 5, 2022 at 11:28 pm

    Hello!!
    I am a formulator of a Goat Milk skincare brand. We use powdered goat milk in everything. We have some products like lip balm that are anhydrous, and we can only use a small percentage of the hydrophilic powder, and sometimes a small granular will come about during application, but its “OK” for these stick products. Now I am challenged to get this into a Balm with a creamy texture. Any idea on how to do this? I’m just concerned of the granules being much more obvious. HELP

    Abdullah replied 2 years, 8 months ago 8 Members · 11 Replies
  • 11 Replies
  • Mayday

    Member
    January 6, 2022 at 4:40 am

    Could you source goat milk fat instead of goat milk? Then it would mix easily and you’ve included the most important part.

    Could you rehydrate goat milk with water and/or ethanol and then evaporate it out at low heat? Though the ethanol could curdle the milk and residual water could require preservative.

    (Disclaimer: I am a novice and don’t have any practical experience in this area.)

  • CedarS

    Member
    January 6, 2022 at 1:04 pm

    You ought to be able to create a butter, a heavier emulsion, but then it would not be anhydrous. Must it be completely anhydrous? 

    The other option, as Mayday mentions, would be to source goat’s milk butter (you can make butter from goat milk, I have, although it’s not as straightforward as cow’s milk as it is naturally homogenous) and use that. 

  • Cafe33

    Member
    January 6, 2022 at 6:10 pm

    I am attempting a similar formulation blending HA in a solid balm like wax. I have stumbled on Olivem 2090 and will be attempting a W/O. Maybe that is something you can look into. 

  • Carrie

    Member
    January 6, 2022 at 10:33 pm

    Thank you so much for your ideas! I have tried using Goat milk Butter, but the documentation for it was too limited but maybe I’ll try this again and see if I can get a better supplier Thanks Mayday!…..

  • Carrie

    Member
    January 6, 2022 at 10:34 pm

    CedarS, If I stick
    with the Goat Milk powder, then I think I am going to go with a heavier
    emulsion, will make a w/o emulsion, it definitely does not have to be
    completely anhydrous, but it is preferred.

  • Carrie

    Member
    January 6, 2022 at 10:34 pm

    Cafe33 Are you
    blending the powder form of HA in the Balm?? I will look into the Olivem 2090,
    I have tried Acticire from Gatoffasse to get a few water soluble extracts into
    a balm and that worked great, didn’t do so much for my goat milk slurry though. 

  • Cafe33

    Member
    January 6, 2022 at 11:22 pm

    I am imagining forming a w/o emulsion using an HA and Sodium Lactate aqueous solution into a balm mixture which includes candelilla wax, cetyl alcohol, esters and oils among other things. I am hoping the Olivem 2090 will allow me to do so. Formulator sample shop carries the ingredient so I will order it soon; however as an international customer, I will have to be patient.  

  • Pattsi

    Member
    January 7, 2022 at 1:09 pm

    force it in like this?

    Olive Oil, Coconut Oil, Castor Oil, BTMS, Rose Hip Oil, Evening Primrose, Kaolin Clay, Zinc Oxide, Goat Milk Powder, Coconut Flour,Goat Milk Powder, Vitamin B3, Dehydrated Banana, Aloe, Matcha Green Tea, Willow Bark, Moringa Powder.

    Don’t know is it a good idea or not.
  • joowan11

    Member
    January 8, 2022 at 8:35 pm

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=755Z5eIi-8A

    you might find this video helpful.

  • Syl

    Member
    January 8, 2022 at 10:43 pm

    @czkld, thank you for the video.

  • Abdullah

    Member
    January 9, 2022 at 5:14 am

    Are you using milk as claim ingredient and because your company name has milk in it or it has some benefit?

    If for claim then you can us 0.00000000001% or lower. That is enough.

    If it has a benefit, at what percentage minimum will it have that benefit? Of percentage is high then the only way is to make emulsion.

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