Formulating Toner - Steps? Xanthan gum? Tween 80? - Chemists Corner

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Formulating Toner - Steps? Xanthan gum? Tween 80?

Posted by Anonymous on November 7, 2017 at 6:04 pm

Hello lovies

I am formulating two cosmetics with cherry leaf alcoholic extract (alcohol 70%). The first one is a facial prepper, similar to a toner but without the cleasing purpose. By adding Tween 80, I expect to disrup the corneum stract and ease the way to the actives in the sheet mask that I intend to infuse with the serum.

The facial prepper follows this formula:

PHASE A

Xantham gum - 0,5% - thickening agent

Phytic acid - 0,5% - natural chelant and pH adjuster

Optiphen - 1,5% - preservative

Tween 80 (Polysorbate) - 1,5% - surfactant

Vitamin E - 1,0% - antioxidant

PHASE B

Essential oil - 0,15% - fragrance purpose

Rose water - 10,00% - antioxidant % antiinflamatory active

Extract - 3,50% - active

So…

1) How is the step by step? Should I mix the xantham with water then add the Polysorbate 80 and then the Vitamin E? I know Phase B is only after everything A is settle and cold.

2) I’m also worried about the Phytic Acid beacuse of the pH (which I need as a natural chelant and to regulate the pH of the preparation), in wich part should I add? Will it make the system unstable if I add in the end? Should I mix with water first?

3) What about the preservative? Does Optiphen goes along with Tween 80?

Thank you SO SO SO much!!

Bobzchemist replied 7 years, 5 months ago 3 Members · 3 Replies
3 Replies

belassi

Member
November 7, 2017 at 6:18 pm

First, 0.5% gum is a LOT and you have no glycerin to predisperse it. You will need a continuous duty high shear vortex mixer if you are going to disperse this directly in water. You MAY be able to predisperse it in the polysorbate but I haven’t tried that myself.
Secondly, the preservative seems too high. Rosewater contains phenyl alcohol which is a preservative. I suggest you consult a preservative specialist on this aspect.
Bobzchemist

Member
November 8, 2017 at 12:13 am

“By adding Tween 80, I expect to disrup the corneum stract and ease the way to the actives in the sheet mask that I intend to infuse with the serum.”

Disrupting the stratum corneum is not safe. Liability concerns prohibit me from commenting further, sorry.
Doreen

Member
November 10, 2017 at 11:05 am

The numbers don’t add up to 100%. Are there other ingredients?

I totally agree with @Bobzchemist . Why would you want to disrupt the stratum corneum? To enhance absorption? I would strongly advise against it.
And why do you expect a polysorbate to disrupt the stratum corneum by the way?

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