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Formulating a Moisturizer
Hello, I’m trying formulate a oily skin moisturizer with naturally derived ingredients. My formulation so far is Aloe
Vera gel, Glycerin, Phytocide Elderberry OS, Hamamelis Virginiana(witch Hazel)
extract, Vitamin E, Vitamin C, Green tea extract, Coconut oil, Mango butter, Beeswax,
Olivem 1000, and coenzyme Q10. I’m thinking of having Phytocide Elderberry OS at 4%. Am I missing anything to keep this safe and stable before testing? This is my fist time doing this so any help would be much appreciated. -
10 Replies
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Sorry to be really blunt…but haven’t seen one like this is a while!
Umh… Missing a preservative! (Don’t point at the phytocide…that is wishful thinking.) While you are at it…get a chelate.
You have a who’s who of oxidation nightmares. Maybe study some of those…before sweeping the kitchen sink into the potion.
Aloe is all beginner hype…and no substance, other than being a preservation nightmare.
The glycerol is a good start, but tends to get sticky….if you use enough of it. Hence I would use maybe 3%, and consider adding something else….say sodium lactate…or many various and sundry humectants.
Coconut, mango and beeswax are heavy and nasty. Pretty much exactly what you don’t want for oily skin. Look at the esters…and lighter oils….like rosehip, raspberry, milkthistle…etc…etc. Butters are just thick oils…typically with a poor fatty acid triglyceride profile…but for some reason…beginners flock to them???
Good Luck.
There is a Free beginner formulation course affiliated with this site…. I think you might find it valuable.
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This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by Graillotion.
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Just to make sure you understood what I meant. You should not use ANY purported preservative from the company that makes the one you listed. They cast a wide net…so make sure you know who the mfg is…not just the seller, and all the names they try and hide behind.
If you are interested in proper preservation, this site is honored to be frequented by one of the world’s foremost experts….you know….the guy that wrote the literal book on it. I will attach an interview with Perry and Dr Phil Geis…and if you like….you can view it.
Aloha.
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Thank you for providing the video. Every bit helps
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This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by
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I like your ideas and understand why you have chosen those materials.
I am a chemist and worked for 4 cosmetic manufacturers (predominantly as a quality manager) but I recommend to start with a basic formula first. That way you can adjust the viscosity, rub in and skin feel before wasting your extracts.
Example Basic Moisturiser
83.1 % Water (most purified DI or RO water you can get)
3% Glycerin
0.2% Xanthan Gum (mix the glycerin and gum together till smooth and no lumps, then slowly add it to the water till the water has slightly thickened)
Heat those three ingredients (water phase) in a bowl/beaker
4% Olivem 1000
0.5% Mango Butter
8% Oil (of your choice)
Put them all (oil phase) in a separate bowl/beaker and also heat.
Once both water and oil phases reach 65C pour the oil into the water.
Use a stick mixer to emulsify both phases together and once below 40C add
0.2% Vitamin E
1% Microcare SB (sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate)
I worked for a certified organic skincare company who used Leucidal and Elderberry as the preservative and 70K worth of product burst out of its packaging (Yeast & Mould and bacteria contamination) and the products were sent back to us in a shipping container from China.
The owner of the company was the R&D formulator and despite our objections rushed the formulations into production in order to secure the contract. Despite losing the contract and tarnishing their reputation, they still were set on using that preservative. Long story short. I dont recommend using those materials as preservatives.
Good luck on your journey.
As you learn and grow you will develop a liking for different materials and once you have a basic formulation locked in. You can start adding extracts and monitoring whether each has an effect.
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Agreed. I had a line that strongly insisted on using Leucidal. We provided lots of feedback from credible sources. They were “sold on” that fact from the retailer that it was an “effective natural preservative” and even told them a chelant was unnecessary and there was no need to boost the preservative. (This was several years ago). As always we documented the fact that marketing overrode our “strong” concerns.
Less than a year later we got a frantic call, “One of our retailers is pulling product off the shelf due to a black growth. What is it???” We pointed out it was likely a contamination issue. They tried to assign blame on us to their higher-ups saying we created an underpreserved product. Fortunately, we retained the email where they said, “Use what we want.”
“Natural” should never be your primary reason to select a preservative.
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😂 Sometimes it helps to know….whom owns the retailer…then you can be assured that the information is worthless! On that note….what retailer have you ever found…that knew which way was up… with the exception of Simply Ingredients (speaking on behalf of USA only retailers)?
Preservative not working…. is the least of my concerns…. those types are a dime a dozen and available on every street corner. In all probability…if the OP returns to where the original information was sourced…. will end up with something almost as bad, or just as bad. My concerns with Company X… is the flippant use of any old petrol based preservative, much like their business model of following the example of Grape Fruit Seed Extract, and using an exemption not to list it on the INCI, the real preservative…. and then pretending it is natural….when it is actually less natural than some of those that don’t pretend.
With no mention of chelate, pH, glycols…etc… What can we really hope for?
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This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by Graillotion.
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Fortunately, I rarely have to deal with these retailers as we have great relationships with most US Wholesale Distributors, get sampled materials in most cases, and have access to their Technical Service Department.
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Very lucky indeed! I have learned long ago….not to ask re-packers questions. Not only could they not answer questions, they could not even understand the questions. Feeble attempts of ‘cut and paste’ answers from marketing material was the best that could be achieved. The saddest thing I have ever seen…was on beginner forums… they would refer to these clueless wonders…as….. wait for it …. “Cosmetic chemists!” OMG….the insult of insults…for those that actually went to school! 😳
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This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by
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I just realized the oil phase may stick to the cool sides of the beaker before it has a chance to hit the water phase.
So, can you change the 4% Olivem1000 to 2% please and increase the water phase by 2% to compensate.
Another way to negate the above-mentioned risk is to mix and heat the oil phase in a stainless steel bowl, this ensures it wont stick to the cool edges as you try to pour it into the water phase.
Sorry about that. Those are my 2 new suggestions.
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Thanks everyone for taking the time out of your day to help! I will look into the course.
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