Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Eyeshadow not adhering to skin

  • Eyeshadow not adhering to skin

    Posted by jhaesayte on April 3, 2017 at 7:26 pm

    Hi everyone!
    I’ve been playing with making mineral eyeshadows for the past month, experimenting and learning, and I haven’t been able to find the information I’m looking for about some binders I may need.

    I’m keeping it simple, using TKB Tradin’s pre-formulated mixing base (ingredients: Mica, Calcium Carbonate, Zinc Stearate, Kaolin Clay, Silicon Dioxide, Allantoin and carnauba wax).

    At the moment I’m mixing 1 part mixing base, one part MM Sericite, and 6 parts pigments (not mattes, mostly micas). Then I mix coconut oil and tocopherol and lever press it.

    I’ve been getting a beautiful, smooth, pigmented shadow that’s just lovely and velvetty. Only problem is, it wipes off the skin so easily. Any use of a blending shadow brush after applying almost wipes it all off.

    I’ve played around with different binders (glycerin, dimethicone, isododecane, TKB’s press it binder (ingredients: isopropyl myristate,bis-vinyl dimethicone copolymer, dimethicone) grapeseed oil). Tried adding a bit more binder powders (magnesium Stearate, Magnesium Myristate).

    I either end up with something that is too hard and doesn’t lift out of the pan, or a shadow that loses half its pigment.

    Powders will be powders, I get it, but is there anything else that I could experiment with to improve its adhesion to the skin when applying to the eyelid without losing the beautiful texture and color that I already have?

    jhaesayte replied 8 years ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    April 4, 2017 at 1:40 am

    Try treated powders. TKB sells some.

    Also, if powder is too hard, try pressing more softly.

  • jhaesayte

    Member
    April 5, 2017 at 4:07 am

    Thank you for the comment! I have noticed that when pressing my micas, the ones I pressed by hand or with less pressure were softer, smoother feeling and allowed me to pick up more with my brush.

    I’ll take a gander at the treated powders! Thanks for the advice!

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