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  • Emulsions, HLB and confusion

    Posted by Spinr on March 4, 2019 at 2:00 pm

    Hi all

    I am making a hair product and wanted to check with you about peg 7 glyceryl cocoate and Ewax NF (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Polysorbate 60).

    My oil phase HLB is 10.22
    My formula is working on 8% ewax and 4% peg 7 glyceryl cocoate
    This gives me an average emulsifier HLB of 13.66 based on 15.5 HLB Ewax and 10 HLB for peg 7.
    10.33 (ewax) and 3.33 peg 7

    I know I need a high HLB and low HLB number for the oil phase and 10.33 just for Ewax is really close to the oil phase HLB.

    I am not sure what the split would be in a high and low emulsifier, basically how much Ewax and Peg 7 to use?

    Can I ask is this calculation correct or am losing the plot:)

    If I swap the 2 emulsifiers around I get a combined HLB of 11.82 but this is using only 4% Ewax and 8%  Peg 7.

    So sorry for the confusion any help appreciated.

    Microformulation replied 5 years, 8 months ago 2 Members · 1 Reply
  • 1 Reply
  • Microformulation

    Member
    March 4, 2019 at 2:55 pm
    You would need to post the entire Formula in order for anyone to really weigh-in. For example, your E Wax level seems high and oftentimes this is used as a standalone emulsifier as it is easy to use, common in DIY/Crafter Formulations and readily available through retail sources. It is not a favorite of many and I urge you to continue to look at other emulsification systems.
    The HLB System has some benefit, but it isn’t the end all be all. Learn it and use it, but don’t miss the fact that you will really have to “prove” the emulsification system in the lab. If you read about the HLB System, it is really meant for specific and limited emulsifiers. Ewax for example is usually calculated based upon your oil phase percentage. Newer “naturally compliant” emulsifiers also do not follow the HLB System.

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