Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Emulsifier for Fungal Acne

  • Emulsifier for Fungal Acne

    Posted by MaidenOrangeBlossom on July 15, 2025 at 9:16 pm

    Ive been using btms 25 for my clients who have fungal acne, however due to potential irritation is there an alternative? Most of my products are simple minimal ingredients emulsions.

    MaidenOrangeBlossom replied 6 days, 12 hours ago 3 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • fareloz

    Member
    July 17, 2025 at 7:41 am

    Something with no fatty alcohols/acids, like Peg-100 Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate. Note that it is not self-thickening.

    Polymeric dispersions could be an alternative to. Instead of emulsifier you could try Sepimax Zen or Lecigel.

  • Onur

    Member
    July 24, 2025 at 12:21 am

    Esters of fatty acids and alcohols are also triggering malassezia, which are all true emulsifiers are made of. But that depends on the formula. If you use strong anti-fungal agents like climbazole or piroctone olamine, it’s OK to have them in the formula. Use a non-ionic one as suggested above and use the lower concentration of BTMS as the co-emulsifier if you like its texture. (I do!)

    • MaidenOrangeBlossom

      Member
      August 1, 2025 at 7:43 pm

      When I omitted the emulsifier and made a serum, no one bought it even though it was identical. I use only Urea as the active. But now that I have few customers with that issue, I can switch back to regular emulsifiers and custom make for fungal acne.

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