• Formulating

  Cream Pilling - need help

  Posted by chemist411 on May 13, 2025 at 1:57 pm

  I’ve been working on a facial cream formula for a while now, and I’ve been having a lot of issues with it pilling lately. I’ve tried several combinations between 1-3% Sepinov, and 1-5% Glycerin (and) Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, but I haven’t had much luck. I’ve also run into an issue where at times the formula will turn gelatinous after sitting for a few days. I’m trying to mimic the feel and performance of the Epicuren Luminous Glow Cream, and I have most of the ingredients the same, so I’m not sure what else I should try.

  q.s. Water

  2.2% Extracts

  6.5% Glycerin

  2.5% Bovine Colostrum

  1% Preservative

  4.5% Glycerin (and) Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

  5% Sweet Almond oil

  0.1% Vitamin E

  1.75% Macadamia Oil

  1.25% Squalane

  0.3% Kukui Oil

  2% Sepinov EMT 10

  chemicalmatt replied 1 month, 1 week ago 4 Members · 3 Replies

  • #formulation
  • pilling
  • skincare
  • skincare-formulation
• 3 Replies

• 

  evchem2

  Member

  May 15, 2025 at 7:34 am

  A few thoughts:

  -try solutions of just your polymers at the target use level to see if those pill

  - try a sample of the cream without colostrum to see if the gelation still occurs.

  How is the colostrum treated before you incorporate it to lower microbial burden? Based on the ingredient listing of your benchmark, I believe (hope) the colostrum is used there at <1%. I would keep yours at similarly low levels- it seems like a risky ingredient to incorporate for a few reasons.

• 

  MaidenOrangeBlossom

  Member

  May 17, 2025 at 11:08 pm

  q.s. Water: Def not the issue

  2.2% Extracts: Very unlikely

  6.5% Glycerin: Not likely

  2.5% Bovine Colostrum: My bet is possible this is contributing

  1% Preservative: Usually not a problem

  4.5% Glycerin (and) Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer: Never use but suspicious

  5% Sweet Almond oil: Nope

  0.1% Vitamin E: No problem

  1.75% Macadamia Oil: No problem

  1.25% Squalane: No problem

  0.3% Kukui Oil: No problem

  2% Sepinov EMT 10: Don’t know this ingredient

• 

  chemicalmatt

  Member

  May 19, 2025 at 2:16 pm

  “Bovine colostrum”? Isn’t that just a fancy name for milk? I’m betting it is. Pilling arises from polymer oversaturation and this formula hosts two acrylics. I would guess the glycerinacrylate terpolymer is the sourc here, as you suspect. DEL that and see what happens.

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