Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Conditioner formulation for extremely hard water

  • Conditioner formulation for extremely hard water

    Posted by Onur on May 18, 2025 at 6:11 pm

    I put together a simple conditioner formula for really hard water that’s high in calcium and copper ions, which is another reason that hair feels dry and chalky after washing.

    I added a high dose of Tetrasodium EDTA, plus extra water‑softeners like Sodium Hexametaphosphate and Sodium Citrate.

    A few things I’m wondering:

    1. Will these chelators actually pull those minerals out?

    2. Do the amounts look about right?

    3. Any tricks to boost their chelating power, and could they leave any unwanted residue once the hair’s rinsed and dry?

      Here’s the formula:

      Aqueous Phase

    • Distilled Water … q.s. to 100 %

    • Tetrasodium EDTA — 1.5 % (multidentate chelator)

    • Sodium Citrate — 1 % (buffering, secondary chelation)

    • PEG‑120 Dimethicone — 1 % (lowers surface tension)

    • Sodium Hexametaphosphate — 1 % (polyphosphate chelator)

      Lipid Phase

    • Cetearyl alcohol — 5 % (long‑chain fatty alcohol; viscosity builder and co‑emulsifier)
    • Behentrimonium chloride — 2.5 % (quaternary ammonium cationic emulsifier and conditioning agent)
    • Cyclopentasiloxane & Dimethiconol — 2 % (volatile/non‑volatile silicone blend for sensorial slip and gloss)
    • Amodimethicone + Cetrimonium chloride + Trideceth‑12 — 2 % (amine‑functional silicone micro‑emulsion)

      Cool‑Down Phase:

    • Fragrance (Parfum) — 0.10 %

    • Broad‑spectrum preservative system (1,2‑Hexanediol / Caprylyl Glycol / Phenoxyethanol) — 2 %

    • Citric Acid — q.s. to adjust final pH to 4.5

    • This discussion was modified 3 weeks, 5 days ago by  Onur.
    MaidenOrangeBlossom replied 2 weeks, 5 days ago 3 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    May 19, 2025 at 2:21 pm

    You do not need three chelants there, especially at those levels. Tetrasodium EDTA whas the highest formation constant with those metal valences compared to the other two, so just stick with that. Unless your copper levels are WAY HIGH, to where the water is orange, 1.0% solid state Na4 EDTA will suffice. As for the other questions, be sure to dissolve the chelant into water first before you add the other materials.

  • MaidenOrangeBlossom

    Member
    May 25, 2025 at 8:12 pm

    I’ve had good luck using gluconolactone or gluco delta lactone. Its very soft, hydrating and a natural chealtor. So I imagine it could be a double whammy and help with both problems. I also have had good luck adding apple cider vinegar the low ph seems to work miracles on hair with higher ph water.

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