• ngarayeva001

    Member
    May 24, 2019 at 11:29 am

    It’s a secondary surfactant that improves foaming and adds viscosity. I like using it in sulfate-free products.

  • Gunther

    Member
    May 30, 2019 at 1:32 am

    It’s a secondary surfactant that improves foaming and adds viscosity. I like using it in sulfate-free products.

    May I ask how much CDEA do you usually use?
    I found it leaves a sticky afterfeel over 1%

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    May 30, 2019 at 5:43 am

    @Gunther I use 2% in a shampoo. Haven’t noticed any stickiness. Maybe it’s compensated by other ingredients..

  • sven

    Member
    May 30, 2019 at 5:50 am

    @ngarayeva001 thats about right 2% works well for me also. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    May 30, 2019 at 9:44 am

    This is a shampoo formula. Total active surfactants 15%

    INCI %
    Aqua 48.5%
    Tetrasodium
    EDTA
    0.2%
    Glycerin 1.0%
    Cocamidopropyl
    Betaine
    20.0%
    Sodium C14-16
    Olefin Sulfonate
    5.0%
    Sodium Lauroyl
    Sarcosinate
    17.0%
    Cocamide DEA 2.0%
    Polyquat 7 0.5%
    Polyquat 10 0.8%
    Amodimethicone 1.0%
    PEG-7 Glyceryl
    cocoate
    1.5%
    Germaben II 1.0%
    Crothix Liquid 1.5%

    It’s very mild conditioning formula. As you can see it’s sulfate free and the surfactants used here are rather difficult to thicken. I use both CDEA and Polyquat 10 to add to viscosity. Crothix alone isn’t sufficient here.
    By the way it will be clear if you heat the CDEA with a little bit of water before adding to other surfactants. Other than that it’s cold process.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    May 30, 2019 at 9:48 am

    Another approach:

    INCI %
    Aqua 40.3%
    Tetrasodium
    EDTA
    0.2%
    Glycerin 1.0%
    Cocamidopropyl
    Betaine
    20.0%
    Sodium C14-16
    Olefin Sulfonate
    30.0%
    Cocamide DEA 2.5%
    Polyquat 10 1.0%
    Polyquat 7 0.5%
    Amodimethicone (emulsion) 2.0%
    Germaben II 1.0%
    PEG-7 Glyceryl
    cocoate
    1.5%
    Citric Acid
    NaCl
    QS

    Here the viscosity is achieved with NaCl (not much), CDEA and Polyquat 10 without any crothix. It is deeply conditioning formula for everyday use (active surfactant about 15%). I used 2.5% of CDEA here but I wouldn’t say it’s sticky either.

  • sven

    Member
    May 30, 2019 at 10:05 am

    @ngarayeva001 i like the use of the sarcosinate. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    May 30, 2019 at 10:10 am

    @sven you can exclude Olefin Sulfonate at all and the formula will be chrystal clear (it’s still clear but olefin sulfonate is yellow). But then it would be very difficult to thicken. 
    I love Sarcosinate. It’s very gentle and easy to work with. Zein protein and HET CAM tests show it’s somewhere in the middle (moderately irritating) but when you mix it with CAPB it becomes very mild.

  • Gunther

    Member
    June 1, 2019 at 1:16 am

    This is a shampoo formula. Total active surfactants 15%

    INCI %
    Aqua 48.5%
    Tetrasodium
    EDTA
    0.2%
    Glycerin 1.0%
    Cocamidopropyl
    Betaine
    20.0%
    Sodium C14-16
    Olefin Sulfonate
    5.0%
    Sodium Lauroyl
    Sarcosinate
    17.0%
    Cocamide DEA 2.0%
    Polyquat 7 0.5%
    Polyquat 10 0.8%
    Amodimethicone 1.0%
    PEG-7 Glyceryl
    cocoate
    1.5%
    Germaben II 1.0%
    Crothix Liquid 1.5%

    It’s very mild conditioning formula. As you can see it’s sulfate free and the surfactants used here are rather difficult to thicken. I use both CDEA and Polyquat 10 to add to viscosity. Crothix alone isn’t sufficient here.
    By the way it will be clear if you heat the CDEA with a little bit of water before adding to other surfactants. Other than that it’s cold process.

    Interesting formula.
    -  Is that 0.8% active PQ-10 (in powder form)?
    -  What’s the emulsifier for amodimethicone?

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    June 1, 2019 at 6:59 am

    Yes, PG-10 is in powdered form, PG-7 is liquid with low active %. Amodimethicone is an emulsion: Amodimethicone, trideceth-12, cetrimonium chloride. I have chemically treated and  damaged hair, so for me this amount of conditioner makes sense. Probably most of people need less.

  • Aziz

    Member
    June 2, 2019 at 2:10 am

    @sven you can exclude Olefin Sulfonate at all and the formula will be chrystal clear (it’s still clear but olefin sulfonate is yellow). But then it would be very difficult to thicken. 
    I love Sarcosinate. It’s very gentle and easy to work with. Zein protein and HET CAM tests show it’s somewhere in the middle (moderately irritating) but when you mix it with CAPB it becomes very mild.

    Have any way to make yellowish AOS clear ? 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    June 2, 2019 at 12:44 pm

    Exclude olefin sulfonate at all. You will need more crothix to thicken it though.

  • Gunther

    Member
    June 3, 2019 at 4:52 pm

    Doesn’t the high amount of CAPB makes it hard to thicken?
    Or does CAPB help thicken sarcosinates too, like it does with SLES?

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    June 3, 2019 at 8:07 pm

    Salt has no effect on Sarcosinate. CAPB is there for mildness.

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