Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Can Someone explain how the water is incorporated into this stick product?

  • Can Someone explain how the water is incorporated into this stick product?

    Posted by StefffGeeee on April 22, 2025 at 9:29 pm

    Hi! I’ve been wanting to try making a chapstick with water emulsified in and I found one in the market that I’d like to try and dupe, but I don’t understand how it’s done. Do waxes work as emulsifiers? what do you think the most % water could be in this formula? Any tips for pulling this off? I won’t be adding color and will forgo the proteins and amino acids, at least to start.

    INGREDIENTS

    Vegetable Oil, Candelilla Wax, Shea Butter, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Olive Fruit Oil, Castor Seed Oil, Carnauba Wax, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sunflower Seed Oil, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Shea Butter Unsaponifiables, Bisabolol, Palmitic Acid, Glycerin, Tocopherol, Aloe Ferox Leaf Juice Extract, Water, Lecithin, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Indica Stem Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Arginine, Glycine, Lysine, Oligopeptide-177, Oligopeptide-4, Phenylalanine, Potassium Sorbate, Sisymbrium Irio Seed Oil, Sodium Hydroxide. May Contain(±): CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), Ci 15850 (Red 7), Ci 42090 (Blue 1 Lake), Ci 15985 (Yellow)

    MaidenOrangeBlossom replied 1 week, 3 days ago 4 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • evchem2

    Member
    April 23, 2025 at 7:45 am

    Based on the fact water is after tocopherol, I would guess the water is <1%. Lecithin is the only emulsifier I see here, but the xanthan gum (though this might be low % /part of an ingredient blend) and waxes can also contribute to stability

    • StefffGeeee

      Beginning formulator
      April 23, 2025 at 12:41 pm

      Thank you, you’ve just taught me something about how to evaluate a list of ingredients. So the preservatives are likely also part of an ingredients blend, possibly one of the extracts. Still some ingredients here are in water and/or glycerin (I’m now assuming this is also part of a blend), and the hydrolyzed proteins are water soluble- the lecithin and various oil thickeners are enough to stablize this into a stick product apparently.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 23, 2025 at 3:58 pm

    As mentioned,…it is below the 1% line. I suspect it came along for the ride with another ingredient…and was not directly added as an ingredient. Might even have come with the aloe….but there are other possibilities as well.

  • MaidenOrangeBlossom

    Member
    April 23, 2025 at 6:37 pm

    Myristate: i think it can help emulsify but not sure. I haven’t work with it but I remember reading about a self emulsifying butter that contains this chemical.

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