Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair BTMS cationic emulsifiers for hair products

  • BTMS cationic emulsifiers for hair products

    Posted by Spinr on July 29, 2018 at 7:28 am

    Hello..

    I am making hair and clay pomades and wanted to ask for thoughts on using either BTMS-50 or BTMS-25 as the sole emulsifier in the product.

    Would this be okay with a usage level of 9 or 10%?

    I have tried Ewax Nf and cetearyl alcohol/ceteareth 20 but find the results disappointing and ideally looking for a more conditioning feel in the products.

    Would I then need a co-emulsifier in your experience to stabilise and if so what would be suitable for a cationic emulsifier?

    I notice this company use it in their formulas, https://www.arcadiangrooming.com/

    Sample recipe of theirs below:

    Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Eucalyptus Globulus Flower Water, Microcrystalline Wax, Kaolin, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Sea Clay, Glycerin, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Silica, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Oil, Pinus Nigra (Black Pine) Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil, Pogostemon Cablin (Patchouli) Oil, Juniperus Communis (Juniper Berry) Fruit Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Picea Mariana (Black Spruce) Oil, Canarium Luzonicum (Elemi) Oil, Cedrus Deodora (Cedarwood) Bark Oil, Melaleuca Leucadendron Viridiflora (Niaouli) Oil, Potassium Sorbate

    My ingredients do not differ that much from the above.

    Hope you can help.

    Many thanks

    Gunther replied 6 years, 4 months ago 2 Members · 1 Reply
  • 1 Reply
  • Gunther

    Member
    July 31, 2018 at 2:32 am

    IMO 9-10% BTMS might lead to very thick, almost solid like formulations
    but who knows, maybe the other ingredients reduce its viscosity.

    IDK if they used PEG-40 as a co emulsifier, or just as an oil source.

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