Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Best humectant to help with preservation

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  • Best humectant to help with preservation

    Posted by Margaret on December 11, 2023 at 8:00 pm

    Hiya,

    Which is the best humectant (of the 3 below) and which is the worst to help with preservation of lotions and creams? Of course I’m using a preservative, I just want to NOT use glycerine any more, BUT that depends on how it rates versus the other 2 humectants down below:

    glycerine

    sodium lactate (60% solution)

    propylene glycol

    Margaret replied 11 months ago 4 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • Graillotion

    Member
    December 12, 2023 at 12:39 am

    There is a concept in formulating, where every ingredient either helps with, or hinders the overall formula’s preservation profile. Very few ingredients would be considered completely neutral in that regard.

    However, all the ones you mentioned should fall into the positive category. The only one I do not use is PG, for two reasons. It is usually petrol based, and with its short carbon chain, it is not nearly as boosting as something like pentylene glycol. I prefer my glycols to work in the preservation segment more so than in the humectant side, albeit they typically do both. (Prowess of each…determined by carbon chain length.)

    I have grown to appreciate the skin after-feel of sodium lactate, and kinda love everything ‘lactic’. Granted you lose a lot of polymeric options….but I have been loving products made with Na Lactate and Hydrovance (Hydroxyethyl Urea). I still toss a kiss of glycerin into this soup….gotta keep those aquaporins alive and kicking.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    December 12, 2023 at 12:43 am

    Consider adding 1,3 Propanediol and pentylene glycol to your arsenal. Both can be bio-based….supplier dependent.

    • Margaret

      Member
      December 12, 2023 at 9:16 am

      Allo Graillotion!

      Thanks so much for your response.

      I canNOT get pentylene glycol from the 2 or 3 repackers I get my ingredients from, since I am just a hobbyist. The repackers have even stopped selling PG (I found a candy-making supplier that sells it luckily, so I bought 2 U.S. gallons recently. I’ll use MOST of that up however, for my stick deodorants).

      I’m pretty sure the glycerin I get is from palm feedstocks, which bums me out. THAT is why I wish to abandon it. I am suspicious of the RSPO since forest was still cleared for palm plantations.

      I have an issue with 1,3 propanediol. It’s made from corn, and I’ll bet it’s from the EDIBLE part of corn, NOT the stalks &/or leaves, and THAT is my issue with it.

      It is IMPOSSIBLE to be environmentally-neutral with ingredients, but I am trying to be neutral where I can.

      • Camel

        Member
        December 12, 2023 at 4:36 pm

        Hi Margaret,

        I get my glycerin from Valerie at Simply Ingredients. You might be interested in checking if it is available to you as I believe it meets your criteria.

        Our glycerin is palm-free and derived from a non-food source, the Karanja tree, which is native to semi-arid regions of India. The fruit of the Karanja tree is collected and crushed to obtain Karanja oil. The oil is reacted with water under heat and pressure to produce water that is enriched with glycerin.

      • Graillotion

        Member
        December 12, 2023 at 6:28 pm

        What country are you in?

        Here are two repackers in the US that carry bio based pentylene glycol:

        Pentylene Glycol BIO 1460 | MakingCosmetics

        Pentylene Glycol (formulatorsampleshop.com)

        • Margaret

          Member
          December 12, 2023 at 9:42 pm

          Canada…eh? I don’t know anyone who says, “eh”, just so you know ????.

          • Graillotion

            Member
            December 13, 2023 at 1:07 am

            I grew up in the era of Bob and Doug McKenzie, and the Great White North….So of course all Canadians say ‘eh’! ???? ⛄

            • Margaret

              Member
              December 13, 2023 at 8:41 am

              Take off eh(?)…hoser.????

  • Perry44

    Administrator
    December 12, 2023 at 2:22 pm

    For price and performance, Glycerin wins.

    • Margaret

      Member
      December 12, 2023 at 9:43 pm

      Too bad most of it is from a palm feedstock.

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