Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Behenyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Behenate (and) Lecithin

  • Behenyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Behenate (and) Lecithin

    Posted by Graillotion on April 20, 2021 at 7:01 pm

    Lucas Meyer is releasing a new emulsifier called Heliosoft, which has the above INCI.  What are the thoughts of this combo, from the chemist?

    Is this just them chasing a Montanov style emulsifier?

    My first reaction is….lecithin…????? 

    I liked their Heliofeel emulsifier, granted never used it commercially, only in testing (and it had Hydrogenated Lecithin).

    Their blurb:

    Heliosoft™

    The mild and soft lamellar emulsifier

    ORIGINE

    100% natural origin emulsifier from sunflower and rapeseed

    INCI

    Behenyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Behenate (and) Lecithin

    PROPERTIES
    • O/W lamellar emulsifier
    • Soft and unctuous skin feel
    • Light and comfortable after feel
    • Hydrates
    • Repairs damages skin
    • High skin tolerance
    • Can enhance bioavailability and efficacy of active ingredients to get better and/or faster results
    • Triggers positive emotions and provides moments of happiness upon application
    Anca_Formulator replied 3 years, 7 months ago 4 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    April 20, 2021 at 7:22 pm

    @Graillotion Lecithin (phosphatidylcholine mainly) is doing the heavy lifting in that combo. Behenyls alcohol and ester are merely the LLC builders for it. The only diff in using the behenyls is the softer sensorial and firmer consistency than if one used C12, 14, 16, 18 homologs.  

  • Anca_Formulator

    Member
    May 10, 2021 at 6:20 pm

    I LOVE this emulsifier. the skin feel is totally unique, light but unctuous and velvety powder dry down.

  • kot

    Member
    May 10, 2021 at 9:16 pm

    I LOVE this emulsifier. the skin feel is totally unique, light but unctuous and velvety powder dry down.

    O-o! You already have it! Where did you get it from? Do you need to hydrate it?
    Thanks.

  • Anca_Formulator

    Member
    May 10, 2021 at 11:06 pm

    @kot: I got a free sample through UL Prospector. 
    No, you don’t have to hydrate it. It goes in the oil phase. Very easy to work with. 

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