Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Azelaic face cream Separating

  • Azelaic face cream Separating

    Posted by Christy30 on February 17, 2022 at 2:46 am

     Hi
    my name Christiana, I made a face cream with Azelaic acid for acne 
                    Experiment A

      Phase          %w         ingredients INCl name        

         A                  58.1              Distilled water 
         A                 .1                Tetrasodium EDTA

         A                   7            Cetearyl Alcohol/
                                            cetearyl glucoside 
         A                   2              Cetyl Alcohol   
         A                   1.5            Glyceryl stearate SE
         A                   .3              Solagum AX 

         B                   15             Propanediol 1,3
         B                    2.5              Glycerin         

         B                    2.5            Ethoxydiglycol
         B                    10            Azelaic acid 

         C                    .8             Phenoxyethanol/
                                                   Ethythexylglycerin                             

        C                    .2               Potassium sorbate

    I heat  phase B in a water bath to about 60c till a clear solution is formed 
    then phase B is leave to cool to maintain at 40c 
    Phase A is heated and hold for 20 minutes 
    Phase A is mixed together with a overhead mixer 
    phase B was added at 40c 
    Then I add the phase c
    the ph was at 3.7, I add NaoH solution to rise it ph to 4  the cream turn foaming and loss density
    i choice monantov 68 MB wax because it work well in PH 3 to 10 but Is a bit soapy, I add glyceryl stearate SE to help reduce the soapy Effect 

                   Experiment B 

       Phase                   %W              Ingredients
            A                      69.3           Distilled water      

            A                       .2             Sodium gluconate

            B                        5           Glycerylstearate/                  
                                                   Cetearyl alcohol/ 
                                                   Sodium stearoyl lactylate
             B                        2         Stearic acid   
             B                        3         Hempseed oil
             B                        3           Gapeseed oil
             B                        4          Roseship seed oil
                                                     
              C                       5             Propanediol 1,3
              C                       2            Glycerin      
              C                       3            Ethoxydiglycol
              C                                        Azelaic acid
                                                       
               D                    .5            Tocopherols T50
               D                     1             Cyclomethicone 
                                                 Preservative geogardECT
               D                     1     benzyl Alcohol/salicylic acid  
                                                   glycerin/sorbic acid 

    phase A was heated and hold for 20 minutes phase B was heated 
    phase A was combined with phase B and mix together with a overhead mixer 
    phase c was mix together by hand to dissolve Azelaic acid and then added in phase A- phase B at 40c 
    phase D was added 
    my problem was after one week the Azelaic face cream start to Separate
    the emulsifier I used the suppler said  is stable in ph of 5 -7  could that be the Reason of separation 

    please i need help or advise thanks in advance 

    Christy30 replied 2 years, 10 months ago 1 Member · 0 Replies
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