• Formulating

  anhydrous balm stability

  Posted by AleH on August 10, 2020 at 1:45 pm

  Hi everyone, I’ve been trying this formula and maybe you can
  help me with some issues:

  I was trying to prevent the graininess that usually appears
  in this kind of product adding Sorbitan olivate (olivem 900) and it seems to
  make it less process dependant.

  My client wants to add sugar or salt as an exfoliant, my
  doubt is if they would dissolve somehow in the emulsifier and I’ll be losing
  the particles? Or if the salt would absorb water that would end in phase
  separation?

  My client also wants a high amount of grapeseed oil, but I
  have a concern it gets rancid although vitamin E, could it make unstable
  the balm? I mean, if it gets rancid, besides the unpleasant smell it can be
  changes in viscosity, separation of the oils from the bulk, etc?

  Does anyone have experience with Naticide? Could that prevent contamination
  during usage? (it will be packed in a jar) Or which other preservatives would
  be recommended (best if Ecocert) in this case?

  Much appreciated!

   

  Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil        15,2

  Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil       15,0

  Sclerocarya Birrea (Marula) Seed Oil        13,7

  Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil     13,0

  Argania spinosa (fruit) oil              9,5

  Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter       9,0

  Cannabis sativa Seed Oil                8,0

  Sorbitan Olivate                  6,0

  Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil   5,5

  Euphorbia
  Cerifera (candelilla) wax          3,5

  Naticide               0,8

  Essential oils        0,6

  Tocopherol         0,2

  AleH replied 4 years, 4 months ago 2 Members · 3 Replies

  • anhydrous-balm
  • formulation
  • stability
• 3 Replies

• 

  EVchem

  Member

  August 10, 2020 at 5:05 pm

  Sugar or salt should work fine here just get the right particle size. The oil could go rancid but you have tocopherol to protect it. I don’t think the rancidity would affect stability but can’t say for sure without testing..

  Never used naticide, you could try hydrolite 5 (pentylene glycol)?

• 

  AleH

  Member

  August 10, 2020 at 5:50 pm

  Thanks @EVchem, I’ll try to source some pentylene glycol, I appreciate it! 

• 

  AleH

  Member

  August 14, 2020 at 12:59 pm

  @EVchem Did you ever find instability of your anhydrous formulations using hydrolite 5? I was reading that glycols may retard crystal formation (of the waxes for example) and by disrupting their formation, the product will lack uniformity and correct molecular packing, leading to instability, but from theory to the fact there can be a lot of difference, that’s why I’m asking

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