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Agascalm
Very nice to see this kind of development in Mexico. My little company already uses quite a variety of Mexican plant extracts. One of the intractable things I have not yet been able to fix with any degree of success is acne rosacea. I will give this extract a try on our tester, probably as an emulsion with chia oil, to see if it has any effect. They kindly included a sample with the other items.
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14 Replies
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I’m curious about quality control for plant extracts.
How do you ensure that the material being supplied to you is actually the plant extract that the supplier says it is?
For standard cosmetic ingredients you can run analytical tests like mass spec or IR to get a signature chemical composition. But for extracts, how do you know you are getting Agascalm extract instead of say Aloe extract? What test would you run?
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Realistically the only test I can run is to make a formulation and try it on the customer. I can only trust that the supplier is honest.
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@Belassi, How are you?
How is the test results on agascalm? -
Belassi said:…One of the intractable things I have not yet been able to fix with any degree of success is acne rosacea…You’re not the only one, big pharma hasn’t either
. Seriously, science does neither know what exactly causes rosacea nor why or how in detail. Amongst the more efficient treatment alternatives are antibiotics (mostly metronidazole) and as of late insecticides (ivermectin) since (anaerobic) bacteria and demodex mites, respectively, are key factors. Because rosacea often has its origin not on the skin but elsewhere or is caused by factors not only affecting facial skin, local treatment options are obviously bound to fail more often than not.You might want to concoct a cream which contains plant extracts with good antibacterial, insecticidal/acaricidal, antihistaminic, and anti-inflammatory effects. -
@Pharma, how about tea tree oil + salicylic Acid
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@Dtdang Try it. Given that these are two of the most common ingredients I doubt that they work, they must have been tried more than once before…
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Pharma said:@Dtdang Try it. Given that these are two of the most common ingredients I doubt that they work, they must have been tried more than once before…
Exactly.
Neither does this. Extremely pricey ingredient that did literally zero for my sister’s skin. (If those brands like La Roche Posay etc. using it as claim ingredient, it must be at <0,00001% or something as it discolours, smells and is hard to preserve at 0.3% already (Seppic’s lowest recommended use level).
And neither does licorice in any form. Nor 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol Trans-Isomer (Symsitive, patent by Eucerin) ,nor …… => mention here any so called rosacea active. Or any cosmetic active for that matter.
The people who give these brands positive critique are obviously overly sensitive for a visual placebo effect.
And those before and after pictures in manufacturer’s leaflets. Do they use laser treatment instead of their own ‘actives’ or something? -
Doreen said:…
And those before and after pictures in manufacturer’s leaflets. Do they use laser treatment instead of their own ‘actives’ or something?They probably just switch the before and after pics
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I searched and found the manufacturer:
Agascalm™ neutralizes the negative effects caused by psychological stress on the skin, such as inflammation and redness. This new active reduces skin redness, improves vascular tonicity, restores the barrier function for a moisturized skin, enhances skin radiance and evens skin tone. -
You know, there is a thing in my industry that it called “professional scepticism”. If manufacturer says that the product is amazing, probably it’s because they are not an “independent party”. This is because they want to make a sale. Don’t trust not independent parties.
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My point here is that agascalm is not for acne treatment.
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@Belassi. This post is quite old, but if you are still working on it, it might be useful to consider quantifying components of the plant that have been correlated with the vasoactive effect eg acacetin and tilanin. See HPLC validation method attached (Hernández-Abreu et al). Also, one study noted that different subspecies of this plant have been shown in clinical studies to have different vasoactive effects, though they are used interchangeably in traditional medicine (see Ventura et al).
I have been working on related problems and have also cross validated against soil surveys and previous land use patterns (eg industrial and agricultural use) to make better informed decisions about heavy metal and pesticide residue test selection for raw ingredients.
Thank you for the forum @Perry. I am new to this field and find it highly informative and very interesting.
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There’s nothing more I can contribute — I gave up trying to formulate for rosacea because nothing I tried worked, and my only test subject got tired of being my experimental animal. Tests with Agascalm at up to 5% produced no verifiable effect and it’s a fairly expensive extract.
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Erratum (my previous reply ^ )
SymSitive is not a patented ingredient by the brand Eucerin, it’s the main ingredient in their Rosacea, Ultra Sensitive line (along with licorice). It’s even sold by repackers like MakingCosmetics (only in bulk though, about $1500 per 5 kg).
Eucerin claims to have a patent on their ‘self closing/double protection’ system in their airless packaging, exactly the type that I always use that’s sold by DIY supplier Aliacura. Either their website is far from up to date or they’re full of ? (regarding patents).
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