• Formulating

  Why is my sulphate-free shampoo not thickening?

  Posted by arastellar09 on September 12, 2025 at 7:43 am

  PHASE A

  Distilled Water - q.s. to 100%

  Sodium Phytate - 0.2%

  Propanediol - 3.6% + Hydroxyethyl Cellulose - 1.2% - SLURRY

  Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate - 9% active surfactant matter

  Lauryl Glucoside - 6% ” “

  Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate - 5% ” “

  (Total active surfactant : 20%)

  PHASE B (Cool Down)

  Sapindus Mukorossi (Reetha) Fruit Extract - 1% (water based)

  Acacia Concinna (Shikakai) Fruit Extract - 1% (water based)

  Trigonella Foenum-Graecum (Fenugreek) Seed Extract - 1% (water based)

  Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract - 1% (ethanol based)

  Ananas Sativas (Pineapple) Extract - 1% (ethanol based)

  Curcumin Water-Soluble 25% Colour Strength Powder - 0.3%

  Lemongrass Leaf Oil - 0.09%

  Peppermint Leaf Oil -0.06%

  Geogard ECT - 1%

  Lactic Acid - q.s. to pH 5.5

  - Heat Phase A to 75 degrees celsius, till everything is dissolved and HEC is well hydrated.

  - Add Phase B below 35 degrees celsius.

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  ^^ After this failure, I’ve made some changes and this is what I’ll be making next-

  Phase A — Water/Surfactant Phase

  Aqua (Water) = 58.35%

  Sodium Phytate = 0.20%

  Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate = 3.0% active surfactant matter

  Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate = 3.0% ” “

  Lauryl Glucoside = 9.88% ” “

  (Total active surfactant : ~15.9%) -> lowered total active surfactants and anionic surfactant’s proportion

  
  

  Phase B — Cool-Down / Actives

  TEGO®️ Remo 95 MB (Sorbitan Caprylate, Glyceryl Oleate) = 1.00% -> new thickener I came across (will it work? or should I HEC too?)

  Sapindus Mukorossi (Reetha) Fruit Extract (water-based) = 1.00%

  Acacia Concinna (Shikakai) Fruit Extract (water-based) = 1.00%

  Trigonella Foenum-Graecum (Fenugreek) Seed Extract (water-based) = 1.00%

  Phyllanthus Emblica (Amla) Fruit Extract (ethanol-based) = 1.00%

  Ananas Sativus (Pineapple) Extract (ethanol-based) = 1.00%

  Curcumin (WS 25% powder) = 0.30%

  Cymbopogon Citratus (Lemongrass) Oil = 0.09%

  Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil = 0.06%

  Optiphen (Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol) = 1.00% -> changed preservative

  Lactic Acid = q.s. to pH 5.3–5.5

  Manufacturing Process

  • To the main vessel, add water (room temp).

  • Add Sodium Phytate; mix to dissolve (low–medium shear).

  • Heat to 60–65 °C (This helps dissolve taurate paste and reduces APG viscosity.)

  • Add Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, mix until uniform.

  • Add Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, mix until completely dissolved (scrape walls; avoid aeration).

  • Add Lauryl Glucoside; mix gently until homogeneous.

  • Hold 5–10 min at 60–65 °C to ensure a clear, uniform base.

  • Start cooling with slow sweep.

  • Weigh the vessel and top up evaporative loss with DI water to the original target mass.

  • Cool to ≤40 °C before adding heat-sensitive materials.

  • Add water-based botanical extracts (Reetha, Shikakai, Fenugreek) one by one, mix well.

  • Add ethanol-based extracts (Amla, Pineapple), mix gently.

  • Disperse Curcumin WS 25%; mix until uniform color.

  • Add TEGO®️ Remo 95 MB (1.00%) at 30–40 °C, slowly in a thin stream with low–medium sweep. Mix 10–15 min; then allow 20–30 min rest for micelles to reorganize (viscosity will develop during this window).

  • Add Lemongrass and Peppermint oils; mix until homogeneous.

  • Add Optiphen (1.00%) at ≤40 °C; mix 5–10 min.

  • Measure pH. Adjust slowly with diluted lactic acid to pH 5.3–5.5.

  • Stand 30–60 min at 25 °C and recheck viscosity & pH. Ensure final pH isn’t drifting below 5.5. Fill when stable.

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  Please suggest any more changes I need to make to achieve shampoo like viscosity and have a stable product?

  • This discussion was modified 16 minutes ago by  arastellar09.
  • This discussion was modified 15 minutes ago by  arastellar09.
  • This discussion was modified 14 minutes ago by  arastellar09.

  arastellar09 replied 3 minutes ago 1 Member · 1 Reply
• 1 Reply

• 

  arastellar09

  DIY formulator

  September 12, 2025 at 7:57 am

  Tego Remo 95 MB by Evonik is a lipid associative thickener. Ingredient supplier posted a video of making shampoo with this ingredient on YouTube. In the video, they used Sodium Cocoamphoacetate + Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate + Coco Betaine surfactant system. Only 1% of this thickener was able to achieve a good viscosity. Should I give it a try too? with my Taurate+Sarcosinate+APG surfactant system…?

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