Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Dicaprylyl carbonate vs Isoamyl laurate vs C1519 alkane vs C1215 alkyl benzoate?

  • Dicaprylyl carbonate vs Isoamyl laurate vs C1519 alkane vs C1215 alkyl benzoate?

    Posted by arastellar09 on December 5, 2024 at 1:44 am

    I want to make my hair oil feel ultra light and quick absorbing, what will the best option or combos among these? 40% will be the plant oils, extracts, etc.. I am planning to use the remaining 60% for a light ester. I have all 4 with me. Dicaprylyl has no unpleasant smell while others do which definitely is a minus.

    BY DEFINITION —

    Dicaprylyl carbonate : A clear, colorless, almost odorless oil that spreads nicely and easily and gives a velvet dry skin feel. It is good friends with sunscreen agents and helps to solubilize them. Also, it makes sunscreens feel lighter and spread easier.


    Isoamyl laurate : A naturally derived colorless to yellowish oily liquid that’s touted as a natural silicone alternative. It has great sensorial properties: light but caring, velvety, silky and non-sticky. It’s also great at dissolving UV-filters in sunscreens or dispersing pigments in makeup products.


    C15-19 alkane : A nice-feeling, light emollient that makes the skin soft and smooth. It gives a fresh and gliding sensation with a powdery or soft after-feel depending on the exact grade used. It is a popular alternative to replace silicones.


    C12-15 alkyl benzoate : An often used emollient with a light and silky feel. It’s very mild to both skin and eyes and spreads nicely and easily. It’s often used in sunscreens as it’s also an excellent solvent for sunscreen agents.


    also what is a sunscreen solvent or solubiliser? almost all the description state this function..

    • This discussion was modified 2 weeks, 3 days ago by  arastellar09.
    Aniela replied 1 week, 6 days ago 3 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • jemolian

    Member
    December 5, 2024 at 7:00 pm

    UV filters for sunscreen can come in powder / solid form, so the esters / hydrocarbons can help to solubilize them to incorporate into a formula.

  • Aniela

    Member
    December 9, 2024 at 3:57 am

    The 40% natural oils won’t help the product to feel “ultra light”. Cutting those down to max 20% (providing they are light, not rich) and adding 65-70% of cyclomethicone or isododecane or LuxGlide N5, plus around 10% of C12-15 or hemisqualane will give you a good hair product.

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