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Solid Hair Conditioning Bar - hardness and greasy film issues
Hi all,
I’ve made this formula many times and tweaked both the method and hardening ingredients, but no matter what I do, I can’t seem to get a truly hard bar. Also, it leaves a slightly greasy sheen on my hands. I can wipe them, but it still feels a bit like silicone. Works beautifully on the hair though! Here is the formula:
Heated Phase A:
BTMS 50 - 62.5%
Cetyl Alcohol - 5.3%
Stearic Acid - 6%
Cocoa Butter - 11.4%
Shea Butter - 3.1%
Neossance Hemisqualane - 2%
Olive Squalane - 2%
Cool Down Phase B:
Hydrolyzed Oat Protein - 1.7%
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Lemon Protein (preserved with Leucidal) - 3%
Panthenol - 2%
Essential Oil - 0.5%
Liquid Germall Plus - 0.5%
Method:
Heat ingredients 1-5 to 150-160°F until fully melted.
Add 6 and 7, and blend thoroughly.
Make a slurry out of 8-10 and incorporate well with a stick blender.
Continue mixing intermittently as the mixture cools until a creamy, buttery consistency is achieved.
Add EO and Germall Plus Liquid at around 135°F (I can’t add it below that because the mix gets too hard to pour).
I’ve tried cooling it rapidly in the freezer, but it doesn’t get harder than cooling at room temperature. Also, regardless of the cooling method, the texture on top as it cools is brain-like and wavy. After 24 hours, I have to hit it quickly with a heat gun to smooth it out a bit.
How can I make the bar harder (but not draggy), and get rid of the ‘greasy sheen.’?
Thanks!
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